FAQ – Simple Answers to Important Questions

What to do

• Get in touch with a beekeeping association or a regional branch: German- and Italian-speaking Switzerland, French-speaking Switzerland.
• Enrol in a basic course; in French-speaking Switzerland it is generally organised over two years.
• Visit several apiaries before buying equipment or colonies.
• Assess the time available carefully: from March to September, certain interventions cannot be postponed for long.
• Understand that keeping bees implies a responsibility toward the colonies, the neighbourhood and the health of other apiaries.
• Look for a suitable site: accessible, quiet, well oriented, compatible with the neighbourhood and local rules.
• Consult the bee inspector or the competent cantonal service before setting up.
• Notify and register the apiary according to cantonal rules.
• Choose a single hive system to begin with, ideally one common in the region.
• Prepare the basic equipment: hive, frames, protective clothing, smoker, hive tool, feeder, varroa-monitoring equipment and a hive record sheet.
• Start with a few colonies, ideally 2 to 3, rather than a single one.
• Buy local, healthy and traceable colonies from a reliable source.
• Plan from the outset for simple management: observation, swarm prevention, varroa monitoring, feeding and preparation for overwintering.

If things don’t go as expected

If the site is not yet clear, if no guidance is available, if time is lacking or if the cantonal obligations have not been checked, it is better to wait before buying bees. A season spent in a teaching apiary or alongside an experienced person avoids many mistakes. If a colony is offered quickly — for example a swarm or a colony to take over — its origin, health status, the equipment used and the conditions for moving it should be checked first.

Pitfalls to avoid

• Buying bees before having a site and a reference person.
• Buying a colony “to try it out”, without being sure of having the time to follow it.
• Starting alone, relying only on videos or scattered advice.
• Setting up hives without notification or without checking the cantonal rules.
• Changing hive system in the very first season.
• Buying old equipment that is hard to clean or of doubtful origin.
• Setting up an apiary without thinking about the neighbourhood, paths and cantonal obligations.
• Underestimating the period from April to August: this is often when decisions must be made at the right moment.
• Thinking that a colony can be left without health follow-up, in particular against varroa.
• Forgetting that an unmonitored hive can become a health problem for neighbouring apiaries.

Key takeaway

Becoming a beekeeper is not just about setting up a hive. It means taking responsibility for living colonies, with regular follow-up, health obligations and attention to the neighbourhood. The best start is simple: training, guidance, time available, a registered apiary, a good site, a small number of colonies and consistent equipment.

See also

• How to become a beekeeper?
• The qualities of a good beekeeper
• Setting up your apiary
• Beekeeping and legislation in Switzerland – What beekeepers really need to know

What to do

• Choose a calm, stable and year-round accessible location.
• Place the hives on a solid support, away from soil moisture.
• Favour an orientation towards the morning sun, with some shade available in periods of heavy heat.
• Protect the colonies from the prevailing winds.
• Avoid cold hollows, very damp areas, wind corridors and sites with standing water.
• Orient the entrances so that the bees do not cross directly over a path, a terrace, a house entrance or a busy area.
• Keep a sufficient distance from dwellings, roads, public paths, schools, playgrounds and areas regularly used by people or animals.
• Provide a flight corridor that rises quickly, for example through a hedge, a fence or a soft obstacle placed in front of the hives.
• Check the availability of nectar and pollen sources in the surroundings.
• Provide a reliable water source nearby, especially before hot periods.
• Avoid placing too many colonies in the same location, especially in an area poor in resources.
• Organise the apiary to limit drifting: do not line up the hives in too uniform a way, vary the visual cues and, where possible, leave some space between the colonies.
• Check the local rules before setting up, particularly in an agricultural zone, in a forest, near a road or on land that does not belong to you.

If things do not go as expected

If the bees disturb the neighbours, the first step is to correct the flight corridor: move the hives slightly, add a hedge or a fence, reorient the entrances, or reduce the number of colonies. It is better to intervene early than to let the conflict become entrenched.

If the apiary is damp, cold or difficult to access, inspections become more complicated and the colonies may develop less well. In that case, moving to a drier, brighter and more practical site may be preferable.

If you are unsure about the applicable rules, you should enquire before setting up with the municipality, the canton, the bee inspector or the local beekeeping association. A technically sound installation may still be problematic if it does not respect the local rules or the neighbourhood.

What to avoid

• Setting up hives only where there is room left, without observing the surroundings.
• Orienting the entrances towards a path, a terrace, a front door or a passage area.
• Setting up hives in a cold, damp or wind-exposed location.
• Placing the hives directly on the ground.
• Putting too many colonies on a small site.
• Creating an apiary that is difficult to access with heavy equipment.
• Forgetting about water, then letting the bees choose the neighbour's swimming pool or drinking trough.
• Setting up hives without the landowner's agreement.
• Assuming that the rules are the same in every municipality or canton.
• Moving colonies without taking notification obligations or the health situation into account.

Key takeaways

A good apiary site must suit the bees, the beekeeper and the neighbourhood. The best site is not only rich in flowers: it is dry, calm, accessible, well oriented, legally clear and organised in such a way as to limit nuisance, drifting and health problems.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.9 Site selection
• Setting up your apiary
• Setting up and inspecting the hive
• Setting up hives in Switzerland: status, obligations and authorisations
• What water for our bees?

What to do

• Before opening the hive, observe the entrance and, if possible, the debris on the varroa floor insert: this already gives indications of activity, the position of the winter cluster, food stores and possible problems.
• Choose a mild, calm and ideally sunny day.
• Prepare the equipment before opening: smoker, hive tool, reserve frames if needed, hive record card.
• Open briefly and work in a targeted way.
• Check the food stores first.
• Check the presence of a laying queen: fresh eggs, young brood or regular brood pattern.
• Observe colony strength: number of frames covered, cohesion of the brood nest, general activity.
• Adjust the space only if needed: do not expand a weak colony too quickly.
• Watch for abnormal signs: suspicious smell, patchy brood, unusual mortality, signs of disease.

If things do not go as planned

If the weather stays cold or unstable, do not force a full inspection. Continue to observe at the entrance, check the weight of the hive, ensure food stores if needed and wait for a real weather window. If you notice a suspicious smell, very abnormal brood or doubts about a notifiable disease, close the hive and contact the bee inspector before intervening further.

What to avoid

• Opening hives out of curiosity at the first flights in February.
• Doing a full inspection in cold, damp or windy weather.
• Spending a long time looking for the queen when fresh eggs or young brood confirm her presence.
• Expanding a weak colony too early.
• Stimulating heavily with syrup when stores are sufficient and the weather is still uncertain.

Key point

The first spring inspection is not decided by a fixed date: it takes place when the colony is restarting and the weather allows the hive to be opened without chilling the brood.

See also

• Ten tips for a good colony inspection
• Practical Guide: 4.8.1 Entrance observation
• Interpreting hive debris

What to do

• Observe for a few minutes without standing in the flight path.
• Compare colonies with one another: a hive that differs markedly from the others warrants closer attention.
• Look at the intensity of the comings and goings: regular activity in fine weather is generally a good sign.
• Watch the pollen coming in: it often indicates that there is brood to feed, but on its own does not prove that all is well.
• Early in the morning, look at the alighting board: a little condensation can indicate that the colony is warming brood. This is a useful clue, not certain proof.
• Identify orientation flights: young bees fly in front of the hive, often in arcs or small circles. They are observed mainly in the afternoon, in fine weather.
• Watch the guard bees: a calm and orderly defence is normal; strong agitation or fighting may signal a problem.
• Look at the dead bees in front of the hive: a few dead bees are normal, especially after a cold or wet period. High mortality, crawling or trembling bees, or bees with deformed wings call for closer inspection.
• Use this observation to prepare for a possible inspection: open the hive only if the weather permits and if there is a real question to be checked.

If things do not go as expected

If a colony flies considerably less than the others in good weather, do not draw conclusions too quickly. First check the context: temperature, hive orientation, known colony strength, food stores, season, and time of day.

If you see fighting, very nervous activity, bees entering from the sides, or wax debris in front of the hive, consider robbing. Reduce the entrance and avoid any handling that releases the smell of honey or syrup.

If many bees crawl, tremble, show deformed wings, or die in front of the hive, check the state of the colony and the varroa situation more thoroughly as soon as possible. If signs suggest a brood disease, do not move combs to other colonies and seek advice from a competent person or the bee inspector.

What to avoid

• Opening a hive purely out of curiosity when outside observation is sufficient.
• Interpreting a single isolated sign as a certainty.
• Comparing two hives at different times or under different weather conditions.
• Standing in front of the entrance and disturbing the bees.
• Ignoring a colony that behaves very differently from the others.
• Confusing a normal orientation flight with robbing: orientation flights are generally calm and localised in front of the hive; robbing is more disordered, nervous, and may involve fighting.
• Mistaking a few dead bees for a serious problem: it is accumulation, repetition, or co-occurrence with other abnormal signs that should raise concern.

Key points

The hive entrance is the colony's first dashboard. It does not replace an inspection when one is needed, but it often allows the hive to be opened less frequently, more quickly, and with a clear purpose.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.8.1 Entrance observation
• Observations at the hive entrance
• Practical Guide: 4.8.2 Hive floor debris check
• Practical Guide: 4.8.3 Robbing

What to do

• Place a clean varroa floor insert or insert board under the hive for a few days, then examine it carefully.
• First look at the distribution of the debris: bands beneath certain bee spaces often indicate where the colony sits and which areas are occupied.
• Look at the nature of the debris: wax debris, cappings, pollen remains, traces of fondant, small dark fragments, dead bees, or varroa mites.
• Relate the observations to the season: an insert board in mid-winter is not read in the same way as one in April or August.
• Compare with the entrance observation: a colony active outside, with consistent debris below, gives a more reliable picture.
• For varroa, count the natural mite drop over a defined period using a clean board. If ants carry the mites away, the count may be distorted.
• Record the observations on the hive record card, especially regarding the position of the cluster, the mite drop, abnormal mortality, or a suspected problem.

If things do not go as expected

If the varroa floor insert shows very little debris, this may simply indicate low activity or a colony clustered elsewhere. But if the colony flies little, feels light, or differs markedly from the others, a closer check should be made as soon as the weather allows.

If the debris is very damp or mouldy, or accompanied by suspicious traces, check ventilation, the condition of the equipment, and the strength of the colony.

If rodent droppings, unusual debris, or gnawed comb fragments are found, check the protection against mice or other intruders.

If the natural mite drop appears high, do not rely on an impression. Carry out a proper count over a suitable period and then decide according to the varroa management concept and the season.

If many dead bees, larvae, brood remains, or repeated abnormal signs are observed, start by also observing the hive entrance. This outside observation often helps in deciding whether opening the hive is necessary, urgent, or on the contrary to be avoided.

If a truly unusual sign is confirmed, a targeted opening of the hive may be justified depending on the season and the weather. The aim is not to carry out a long inspection, but to check a specific point: food stores, position of the cluster, state of the brood, mortality, or presence of intruders. If conditions do not allow opening, or if the interpretation remains uncertain, it is better to seek advice from an experienced person before intervening.

In the case of a serious health concern, in particular when faced with suspect brood, an abnormal smell, or high mortality, do not move combs to other colonies and seek advice before any further intervention.

What to avoid

• Drawing a definitive conclusion from a single insert board examined only once.
• Interpreting the debris without taking into account the season, the weather, and the known strength of the colony.
• Confusing “presence of varroa mites” with “level of infestation”: a few naturally fallen mites are not on their own enough to justify a treatment decision.
• Carrying out a mite count on a board that is dirty, displaced by the wind, accessible to ants, or left for too long without a clear method.
• Opening a colony in winter solely because some detail on the varroa floor insert is intriguing.
• Leaving an obvious problem without follow-up: high mortality, excessive moisture, traces of rodents, or a concerning mite drop.

Key points

The varroa floor insert makes it possible to read part of the colony’s life without opening the hive. It helps in deciding what to check, but it must always be interpreted together with the season, the entrance observation, and the overall state of the colony.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.8.2 Hive floor debris check
• The fascinating secrets of reading hive debris
• Interpreting the insert boards
• Practical Guide: 1.5.1 Measuring the natural mite drop

What to do

• Observe often from the outside: hive entrance, alighting board, activity, pollen coming in, approximate hive weight, and debris on the varroa floor insert.
• Only open the hive if a specific question needs to be answered: food stores, brood, available space, health status, queen-rightness, risk of swarming, or the need to intervene.
• Choose favourable weather: calm, dry, ideally sunny, around 14–15 °C or warmer. The weaker the colony or the more brood is present, the more cautious one must be.
• In spring, follow the colonies closely but without opening unnecessarily: brood development, food stores, available space, general condition.
• During the swarming period, inspect strong colonies about once a week if the weather permits. This is the time when regular inspection is most important.
• During the nectar flow, check that the available volume is sufficient: super in use, possible need for an additional super, no blocking of the brood nest with honey.
• After the harvest, focus inspections on end-of-season priorities: varroa level, treatment if necessary, food stores, autumn feeding, and colony strength.
• In autumn, carry out the final useful inspections before overwintering, then avoid unnecessary openings.
• In winter, do not carry out a full inspection. Check mainly from the outside: weight, activity on mild days, mortality in front of the hive, varroa floor insert.
• Prepare each inspection before opening: equipment ready, clear purpose, quick handling, observations recorded on the hive record card.

If things do not go as expected

If a colony behaves differently from the others, start by observing the hive entrance and the varroa floor insert. These clues often make it possible to decide whether an opening is necessary.

If the weather is cold, windy, or wet, do not force a full inspection. Wait for a more favourable window, except in case of a real emergency such as a risk of starvation or a serious health concern.

If a colony appears weak, light, aggressive, without normal activity, or with unusual mortality, a targeted opening may be justified depending on the season and the weather. The aim is then to check a specific point, not to carry out a long inspection.

If you are unsure about what you are seeing, it is better to seek the advice of an experienced person before intervening too strongly.

What to avoid

• Opening a hive purely out of curiosity, whatever the season.
• Opening every hive on every visit to the apiary.
• Carrying out long inspections without a clear purpose.
• Opening in poor weather, especially if the brood may be chilled.
• Waiting too long in spring during the swarming period.
• Multiplying inspections in summer to the point of disturbing the colonies and increasing the risk of robbing.
• Opening in winter to check what can be observed from the outside.
• Not recording observations: without written records, it becomes difficult to follow the development of a colony.

Key points

The right rhythm is not a fixed number of inspections. The principle is simple: observe often, open only when necessary, with favourable weather and a clear purpose. In spring, especially during the swarming period, inspections should be more regular; in winter, they are almost always carried out from the outside.

See also

• Ten tips for a good colony inspection
• Good practice for colony inspection
• Inspections: points to watch
• The sleep of bees (Apis mellifera)
• Infernal cascade: chronicle of a foretold death

What to do

• First, observe the colony’s actual strength: number of frames covered with bees, brood, food stores, activity and season.
• Ask whether the space is actually occupied, defended and used by the bees.
• Remove empty, old, damp, mouldy or persistently unoccupied frames.
• Do not remove useful food frames simply to reduce the volume.
• Keep food stores close and accessible, especially before overwintering.
• Use a division board if it helps organise a volume that is too large for the colony.
• Do not confuse division board and insulation: an ordinary side division board is not necessarily an effective thermal wall.
• Look after the top of the hive first: a watertight roof, a well-fitted crown board, no unnecessary void above the frames, dry upper insulation if needed.
• Adapt the decision to the season and to the colony’s actual dynamics.
• Before any restrictive management, check the priorities: colony strength, food stores, varroa, humidity and health status.

Reference by season

• Young colonies, nuclei and artificial swarms: give a volume they can really cover. Add frames progressively, at the pace of their development.
• End of winter and early spring: reducing the space can help a small, healthy colony keep bees, brood and food together. But the space must be expanded as soon as the colony properly occupies it.
• Late spring and nectar flow: do not keep a strong colony too tight. It needs room for laying, nectar and ventilation.
• Summer: avoid over-reducing the space of a strong colony, especially in hot periods. A hive kept too tight can complicate ventilation and encourage the formation of a bee beard.
• After the harvest: remove the supers and unnecessary frames. This is often the most logical time to reduce the volume without removing the necessary food stores.
• Autumn and winter: organise a volume coherent with the colony’s strength, with sufficient and accessible food stores, then disturb as little as possible.

If things don’t go as expected

If the colony is strong and is making good use of its frames, there is often nothing to reduce. A strong colony can organise a large volume, especially in spring and during the nectar flow. Keeping it too tight can limit laying, hinder nectar storage or reinforce the swarming dynamic.

If the colony is weak or young, reducing the space may be useful. It limits undefended frames and keeps bees, brood and food together. But it does not correct the cause of the weakness: an old queen, lack of food stores, varroa, disease or unfavourable population dynamics.

If space reduction forces you to remove well-filled food frames, you must stop. The risk is to reduce the food stores or to make food less accessible. In that case, it is better to move useful food frames close to the colony, or to keep them, rather than reduce the space at all costs.

If the hive remains damp despite a division board, the problem is probably not only lateral. Check the roof, the crown board, the draughts, the floor, the exposure to wind and the ground humidity. Good upper protection can have more effect than mere lateral space reduction.

Pitfalls to avoid

• Reducing the space out of habit, without observing the colony.
• Claiming that the bees must heat the whole hive volume.
• Believing that a small volume compensates for a weak colony.
• Believing that a division board compensates for poor varroa control.
• Removing useful food frames just to “make it smaller”.
• Separating the colony from its food stores with a poorly placed division board.
• Keeping a strong colony too tight in spring or during the nectar flow.
• Leaving a substantial void above the frames while focusing only on lateral space reduction.
• Confusing space reduction, insulation, entrance reduction and feeding.
• Presenting the side division board as a scientifically demonstrated practice in all situations.

Key takeaway

Space reduction is neither a miracle recipe nor a matter of principle to be rejected. It is a tool for managing space. It can help a young colony, a small healthy colony or a colony that needs to be reorganised after the harvest. It can become counter-productive if a strong colony is kept too tight in spring or during the nectar flow.

The key sentence is simple: you do not reduce the space to heat less of the hive; you reduce it only if it improves the colony’s actual organisation.

See also

• Sense and nonsense of reducing colony space
• Sense and nonsense of thermal insulation of hives
• Multiplying a nucleus colony
• Practical Guide: 4.3 Overwintering

What to do

• Observe the colony first: activity at the entrance, incoming pollen, hive weight, food stores visible during an appropriate inspection.
• Check the food stores before feeding: an active colony may nevertheless lack food.
• If the colony is light at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring, prefer fondant, such as candy, placed above the frames, close to the winter cluster.
• In cold weather, avoid syrup given far from the cluster: the bees may not reach it.
• If the colony is developing and the weather remains poor, cautiously top up the food stores.
• If feeding becomes necessary while a super is already in place, first remove the super destined for harvest, then feed the colony.
• Protect removed supers against robbing, moisture and soiling.
• Only put a super destined for harvest back in place once feeding is finished and the situation has been clarified.
• In case of a genuine spring dearth, feed in small quantities and monitor the situation.
• Record the inputs on the hive record card: date, type of food, quantity and reason for feeding.
• Keep in mind that the best safeguard remains a good autumn preparation: a properly overwintered colony needs fewer interventions in spring.

If things do not go as expected

If a colony is very light, weakened or clustered far from its stores, do not delay. Place fondant directly above the frames, as close to the bees as possible. The aim is not to strongly stimulate laying, but to prevent starvation.

If a cold spell arrives while supers are already in place, the rule remains the same: if feeding is necessary, the supers destined for harvest must be removed before feeding. Syrup or fondant must not be able to end up in the harvested honey. If there is any doubt about the contents of a super, the situation must be clarified before any harvest.

If a colony consumes a lot but does not develop, do not multiply the feeding without understanding the cause. There may be a queen problem, a colony that is too weak, a health issue, past varroa pressure or a lack of pollen.

If feeding leads to a brood nest blocked by stores or to a high population density, the risk of swarming increases. More space must then be given at the right time, and signs of swarming impulse monitored.

What to avoid

• Feeding all colonies in spring out of habit.
• Stimulating heavily with syrup when food stores are sufficient.
• Giving cold syrup, or syrup placed far from the cluster, in cold weather.
• Feeding a colony while a super destined for harvest is in place.
• Leaving a super on the hive during feeding, even if it had been put in place before a cold spell.
• Confusing emergency feeding with stimulation.
• Creating an excess of stores that blocks the brood nest.
• Believing that feeding compensates for a colony that is too weak, sick or poorly overwintered.
• Forgetting that too much syrup in spring can encourage imbalance in the brood nest and the risk of swarming.
• Waiting until the colony is visibly starving before acting.

Key takeaways

In spring, feeding is carried out only if the colony needs it. Fondant is the safest option at the end of winter or in cold weather. Syrup must remain cautious and limited. The hygiene rule is strict: no feeding with a super destined for harvest on the hive. If a super is already in place, it is removed before any feeding.

See also

• Late winter feeding: what to make of it?
• Practical Guide: 4.2 Feeding
• Principles of feeding bees
• Practical Guide: 3.2 Dearth periods
• Beekeeping and honey law in Switzerland

What to do

• Start by observing from the outside: activity at the hive entrance, pollen coming in, mortality in front of the hive, hive weight, and debris on the varroa floor insert.
• Open only if the weather permits, ideally around 14–15 °C or warmer, in calm and dry conditions.
• Check the food stores first. In spring, a weak colony can run out of food very quickly, especially when it is rearing brood.
• Look for signs of a laying queen: eggs, young larvae, regular brood. There is no need to find the queen if laying is visible.
• Adapt the volume to the strength of the colony: a weak colony must be able to keep its brood warm. Do not give it too much space too early.
• Note the state of the brood: regular brood, normal larvae, no abnormal smell, no obvious signs of disease.
• If the colony is weak but healthy, with a laying queen and enough food stores, let it develop quietly and monitor it.
• If the colony is very weak but healthy, consider uniting it with a strong, healthy colony rather than letting it dwindle on its own.
• Never unite two weak colonies: this rarely produces a strong colony and often adds up the problems.
• If the colony is very weak and the cause of the weakening is unclear, do not reinforce it with brood or bees from a good colony. First assess the health risk and, if necessary, seek advice.

If things do not go as expected

If the colony lacks food, correct quickly. In still-cool weather, fondant placed as close as possible to the cluster is often safer than liquid feeding placed away from the bees.

If no fresh laying is visible, do not conclude too quickly. Depending on the season and the weather, laying may be light or hard to see. A targeted re-check a few days later can be useful.

If the colony is queenless, drone-laying, or without realistic prospects, avoid wasting brood or bees to save it at any cost. Depending on the situation, it is often better to unite, to destroy, or to deal with the problem cleanly.

If the colony is too weak, severely affected, or without realistic prospects, destruction may be the most responsible solution, especially if the origin of the weakening is unknown. This sometimes prevents keeping a source of problems at the apiary. The decision must be taken with care, in accordance with health recommendations and, in case of doubt, after seeking the opinion of a competent person.

If the brood is very irregular, foul-smelling, sunken, perforated, or suspect, do not move combs to other colonies. Close the hive and seek advice from the bee inspector or an experienced person.

If you hesitate between helping, uniting, destroying, or waiting, seek an outside opinion before any major intervention. In spring, a wrong decision can also weaken healthy colonies.

What to avoid

• Enlarging a weak colony too quickly.
• Giving a super to a colony that does not properly occupy its brood box.
• Stimulating heavily with syrup without understanding why the colony is weak.
• Adding brood from a good colony without having checked the health status of the weak colony.
• Uniting two weak colonies: this rarely produces a viable colony and may compound the problems.
• Reinforcing a very weak colony with brood or bees from a good colony without knowing why it is weak.
• Searching at length for the queen when eggs or young larvae already prove that she is laying.
• Multiplying inspections to “see if things are improving”: every opening further disturbs an already fragile colony.
• Uniting a suspect colony with a healthy one.
• Artificially keeping a very weak colony alive out of attachment when it poses a risk to the apiary.

Key points

A colony that is weak in spring must be assessed with care: food, queen, brood, health, and adapted volume. If it is healthy and well managed, it can sometimes recover. If it is too weak, queenless, or suspect, it is better not to maintain it artificially at the expense of the healthy colonies.

See also

• March at the apiary
• Practical Guide: 4.7.3 Recognising healthy colonies
• Practical Guide: 4.7.1 Uniting colonies
• Practical Guide: 4.7.2 Destroying colonies
• Practical Guide: 4.7.4 Managing queenless colonies

What to do

• As soon as dandelions and fruit trees come into flower, prepare the equipment: super, super frames and queen excluder.
• Observe the colony, not just the calendar: a weak colony does not make good use of a super added too early.
• Check that the brood box is well covered with bees and that brood is developing normally.
• Watch for signs of lack of space: many bees at the top of the brood box, regular nectar income, brace comb on top of frames or under the crown board.
• Place the queen excluder between the brood box and the super.
• Add a ready-to-use super, ideally with already drawn comb or correctly equipped frames.
• Check again a few days later: if the bees go up and start storing, the timing was right.

If things do not go as planned

If the super stays empty, the colony was probably not yet strong enough or the nectar flow has not really started. Do not add further supers: wait until income becomes regular. Conversely, if the bees build on top of the frames or under the crown board, or if the brood box fills quickly with nectar, this is often a sign that space is needed quickly.

What to avoid

• Adding the super on a fixed date without looking at the colony.
• Confusing the preparation signal with the placement signal: dandelions and fruit trees mean be ready, not that every colony should receive a super on the same day.
• Adding a super too early on a still weak colony.
• Waiting until the brood box is saturated with nectar.
• Ignoring brace comb at the top of the brood box: it often indicates that the colony is looking for space.
• Forgetting the queen excluder, with the risk of finding brood in the super frames.

Key point

Dandelion and fruit trees: prepare. Strong colony, real nectar flow and signs of lack of space: add the super with a queen excluder.

See also

• April at the apiary
• May at the apiary
• Ten tips for a good colony inspection
• Comb building

What to do

• Check that the colony is strong enough: many bees, well-developed brood and visible foraging activity.
• Choose a mild day with good flying conditions, and work quickly to avoid chilling the brood.
• Prepare a clean super with suitable super frames, drawn if possible, or with foundation if the colony builds well.
• Open the hive, remove the crown board, then place the queen excluder directly on the brood box.
• Place the super above the queen excluder, replace the crown board and close the hive.
• Check a few days later that the bees go up into the super and begin to occupy the frames.

If things do not go as planned

If the bees do not go up into the super, it has often been added too early, the colony is too weak, the weather is unfavourable or the nectar flow has not really started. If brood appears in a super, you must first check the presence and correct placement of the queen excluder, then correct the management before harvest.

What to avoid

• Adding a super without a queen excluder when super frames are to be kept for harvest honey.
• Placing the queen excluder in the wrong position: it must separate the brood box and the super.
• Adding a super to a weak colony: it may not be occupied and may chill down.
• Waiting too long with a strong colony: lack of space can encourage the swarming impulse.
• Putting frames that have contained brood into the super intended for harvest honey.
• Feeding syrup while supers intended for harvest are in place.
• Treating against varroa with honey supers intended for consumption still on the hive, unless this is compatible with official instructions for the product used.

Key point

In a simple management style, super and queen excluder go together: the queen excluder is placed between the brood box and the super to keep the harvest separate from the brood.

See also

• May at the apiary
• April at the apiary
• The honey harvest
• Practical Guide: 4.7.5. Managing the swarming impulse

What to do

• Place the queen excluder between the brood box and the super.
• Install it at the same time as the super.
• Check that it is clean, well in place and that there is no possible passage on the sides.
• Reserve the super frames for honey production.
• At harvest, take only super frames that contain honey and no brood.

If things do not go as planned

If the super already contains brood, do not extract these frames. You must first prevent the queen from going back up into the super by using a queen excluder, then wait for the brood to emerge before considering extracting the frames concerned. In practice, frames that have contained brood should not enter the chain for extracted or drained honey.

The key legal point is therefore not the obligation to have a queen excluder, but the obligation to produce a compliant honey. In Switzerland, honey that is given away or sold is subject to food law, in particular the Federal Act on Foodstuffs (LFLG) and the ordinances setting out the requirements applicable to honey, hygiene and self-monitoring.

What to avoid

• Adding a super without a queen excluder in a simple management style.
• Harvesting or extracting frames containing brood.
• Mixing brood box frames that contained brood with super frames intended for honey.
• Forgetting that some excluder-free management styles exist, but require more experience.

Key point

The law does not directly require a queen excluder, but it does require compliant honey: in a simple management style, the queen excluder is the safest way to keep the super dedicated to honey.

See also

• Beekeeping and legislation in Switzerland – What beekeepers really need to know
• Beekeeping and honey law in Switzerland
• The honey harvest
• Beekeeping equipment

What to do

• Observe the brood box: the bees should occupy the top of the frames well.
• Check that nectar is really coming in, not just that flowers are present.
• Look whether the brood box is starting to fill with nectar: if not, the bees may not yet need the super.
• Check the super: clean, well-placed frames, wax in good condition, no foreign smell, no mould or doubtful storage marks.
• If possible, place one or two already drawn super frames in the centre of the super: they are often better accepted than frames with only foundation.
• Keep the queen excluder in place and check that it is correctly positioned.
• Check again a few days later, especially if the weather becomes favourable and the nectar income increases.

If things do not go as planned

If the super mostly contains foundation, a real nectar flow, warmth and a strong colony are needed for the bees to build. Already drawn super frames in the middle can help. If the super still stays empty, do not add volume: wait for the colony to strengthen or for the nectar flow to really start.

What to avoid

• Adding a second super while the first one is still empty.
• Concluding too quickly that the colony has a problem.
• Adding a super too early on a still weak colony.
• Expecting fast building on foundation without a real nectar flow.
• Spraying syrup in a super intended for the honey harvest: this blurs the distinction between feeding and harvested honey.
• Spraying honey on the frames: this can encourage robbing and raises hygiene questions if the origin of the honey is not perfectly controlled.
• Putting brood in super frames intended for the honey harvest.

Key point

An empty super is not necessarily a problem: a strong colony, a real nectar flow and attractive super frames are the three main conditions for the bees to go up.

See also

• April at the apiary
• May at the apiary
• Comb building
• Ten tips for a good colony inspection

Was zu tun ist

• Die erste Honigzarge beurteilen, nicht nur den Kalender.
• Sicherstellen, dass die Bienen die bereits aufgesetzte Honigzarge tatsächlich besetzen.
• Prüfen, ob mehrere Waben Nektar oder reifenden Honig enthalten.
• Die Tracht beobachten: regelmässige Nektareinträge, hohe Sammeltätigkeit, zunehmendes Beutengewicht.
• Eine zweite Honigzarge ergänzen, wenn die erste gut besetzt ist und die Tracht anhält.
• Für eine einfache Betriebsführung die zweite Honigzarge über die erste Honigzarge setzen.
• Enthält die neue Honigzarge vorwiegend Mittelwände und ist das Volk sehr stark, kann sie auch unter die erste Honigzarge, direkt über das Absperrgitter, eingeschoben werden.
• Bei starker Tracht vorzugsweise bereits ausgebaute Waben geben: die Bienen können rascher einlagern.
• Mittelwände nur verwenden, wenn das Volk ausreichend stark ist und sich in einer Bauphase befindet.
• Das Absperrgitter weiterhin einsetzen, wenn das Ziel brutfreie Honigzargen sind.
• Einige Tage später kontrollieren, ob die Bienen die neue Honigzarge besetzen.

Wenn es nicht wie erwartet verläuft

Bleibt die zweite Honigzarge leer, wurde sie wahrscheinlich zu früh aufgesetzt, die Tracht ist abgebrochen oder das Volk ist nicht stark genug. In diesem Fall sollte das Volumen nicht weiter vergrössert werden. Besser ist es, abzuwarten, bis die erste Honigzarge besser besetzt ist oder die Tracht wieder einsetzt.

Füllt sich die erste Honigzarge sehr schnell, bauen die Bienen in den freien Räumen oder wird der obere Teil der Beute sehr dicht, so wurde die zweite Honigzarge möglicherweise zu spät aufgesetzt. Dann ist ohne Aufschub Raum zu schaffen und auf Anzeichen der Schwarmstimmung zu achten.

Verschlechtert sich die Witterung nach dem Aufsetzen, muss die zweite Honigzarge nicht zwingend sofort entfernt werden, wenn das Volk stark ist und sie bereits besetzt. Bei einem durchschnittlichen Volk oder einer vollständig leer bleibenden Honigzarge ist das verfügbare Volumen hingegen zu reduzieren.

Die Frage der Position — über oder unter der ersten Honigzarge — sollte nicht dogmatisch geführt werden. Soweit ersichtlich gibt es keinen robusten wissenschaftlichen Nachweis, dass eine darunter eingeschobene zweite Honigzarge mehr Honig liefert. Massgebend ist zuerst das richtige Timing: nicht zu früh erweitern, nicht zu viel leeres Volumen auf einmal geben und eingreifen, bevor dem Volk der Platz fehlt.

Zu vermeiden

• Eine zweite Honigzarge aufsetzen, solange die erste noch nahezu leer ist.
• Warten, bis die erste Honigzarge vollständig gefüllt und verstopft ist.
• Mehrere Honigzargen «zur Sicherheit» auf ein Volk setzen, das sie nicht benötigt.
• Sichtbare Blüte und tatsächliche Tracht verwechseln.
• Eine Honigzarge nur deshalb aufsetzen, weil die anderen Völker bereits eine haben.
• Einem Volk viele Mittelwände geben, das nicht baut.
• Annehmen, die Position der zweiten Honigzarge gleiche ein falsches Timing aus.
• Das Einschieben unter der ersten Honigzarge als wissenschaftlich belegte Pflicht darstellen.
• Vergessen, dass Platzmangel die Schwarmstimmung begünstigen kann.
• Das Volk aus Platzmangel Wildbau errichten lassen.

Das Wichtigste in Kürze

Die zweite Honigzarge wird dann aufgesetzt, wenn die erste gut besetzt ist und die Tracht anhält, nicht zu einem festen Datum. Für eine einfache Betriebsführung wird sie über die erste Honigzarge gesetzt. Das Einschieben unter die erste Honigzarge ist möglich, vor allem mit Mittelwänden und einem sehr starken Volk, bleibt aber eine Betriebsoption. Die belastbarste Regel lautet vor allem: weder zu früh noch zu spät und nicht zu viel leeres Volumen auf einmal.

Siehe auch

• Mai am Bienenstand
• April am Bienenstand
• Die Honigernte
• Merkblatt: 4.7.5 Umgang mit Schwarmstimmung
• Melezitose: Herkunft, Risiken und praktischer Umgang am Bienenstand

Was zu tun ist

• Eine Tränke bereits zu Saisonbeginn einrichten, idealerweise vor den ersten Hitzeperioden und bevor die Bienen eine andere Wasserquelle auswählen.
• Die Tränke in der Nähe des Bienenstandes aufstellen, ohne den Durchgang zu behindern oder unmittelbar vor den Beuten eine Konzentrationszone zu schaffen.
• Ein flaches, stabiles und leicht zu reinigendes Gefäss verwenden.
• Aufstiegshilfen vorsehen, um das Ertrinken zu verhindern: Steine, Kies, Korkstücke, Holzstücke, Moos oder eine raue Oberfläche.
• Das Wasser regelmässig verfügbar halten: eine häufig austrocknende Tränke verliert ihren Nutzen.
• Ein sehr leicht mineralisiertes oder schwach gesalzenes Wasser anbieten, um die Tränke attraktiver zu machen, vor allem im Frühling.
• Als einfacher Anhaltspunkt etwa 2 bis 3 g Kochsalz pro Liter Wasser anstreben. Ziel ist ein schwach gesalzenes Wasser, keine Sole.
• Nicht überdosieren und nach Möglichkeit zusätzlich eine ungesalzene Wasserquelle bereitstellen, insbesondere in heissen Perioden.
• Die Tränke ausreichend häufig reinigen, um übermässige Ablagerungen, Mücken und schlechte Gerüche zu vermeiden.
• Beobachten, ob die Bienen die Tränke nutzen. Ignorieren sie sie, Standort, Zugänglichkeit, natürlichen Geruch oder Anflugfläche anpassen.
• In heissen Perioden den Wasserstand häufiger kontrollieren.

Wenn es nicht wie erwartet verläuft

Die Bienen wählen nicht immer die nächstgelegene Wasserquelle. Sie können eine entferntere Quelle bevorzugen, wenn diese attraktiver ist, beispielsweise weil sie Mineralsalze oder andere gelöste Stoffe enthält. Ein Schwimmbad, ein Whirlpool, ein Brunnen, eine Tiertränke oder eine feuchte Bodenstelle nach einer Düngung können die Bienen so stärker anziehen als eine zu saubere, zu kalte, schlecht zugängliche oder zu spät eingerichtete Tränke.

Im Frühling dient das Wasser vor allem der Brutaufzucht und der Zubereitung des Futtersaftes. Ein leicht mineralisiertes Wasser kann dann besonders attraktiv sein. Im Sommer, bei grosser Hitze, sammeln die Bienen zusätzlich viel Wasser, um die Beute durch Verdunstung zu kühlen: in diesem Fall zählen die verfügbare Menge und die Kontinuität der Versorgung wesentlich.

Auch die Wassertemperatur kann bei der Wahl der Bienen eine Rolle spielen, dies ist jedoch eher als praktische Annahme denn als gesicherte Regel zu verstehen. Am wichtigsten bleibt, frühzeitig eine stabile, zugängliche und attraktive Quelle anzubieten.

Trinken die Bienen bereits beim Nachbarn, in einem Schwimmbad oder an einer anderen problematischen Stelle, kann ein rascher Wechsel schwierig sein. Die Bienen merken sich ihre Wasserquellen. Es muss daher eine attraktive, dauerhafte und leicht zugängliche Tränke angeboten und Geduld aufgebracht werden. Eine frühzeitig in der Saison eingerichtete Tränke ist deutlich wirksamer als ein Eingriff, wenn sich die schlechte Gewohnheit bereits eingespielt hat.

Ertrinken viele Bienen, ist die Tränke schlecht ausgelegt: die Tiefe ist zu verringern, mehr Aufstiegshilfen hinzuzufügen oder das Gefäss zu wechseln.

Zu vermeiden

• Mit der ersten Tränke bis zur Hitzewelle zuwarten.
• Ein tiefes und glattes Gefäss verwenden, in dem die Bienen ertrinken.
• Die Tränke regelmässig austrocknen lassen.
• Ein zu stark gesalzenes Wasser oder eine konzentrierte Lösung anbieten.
• Zucker, parfümierte Mittel oder zweifelhafte Substanzen ins Wasser geben.
• Das Wasser in einer von Personen viel begangenen Passagezone aufstellen.
• Die Tränke unmittelbar vor den Fluglöchern einrichten, wenn dies die Aktivität oder die Durchsichten behindert.
• Auf das Schwimmbad, den Whirlpool oder die Tränke des Nachbarn setzen.
• Sehr verschmutztes Wasser zum Hygieneproblem werden lassen.
• Die Bienen dauerhaft unkontrollierte Wasserquellen aufsuchen lassen, etwa kürzlich gedüngte Feuchtflächen.

Das Wichtigste in Kürze

Die Bienen benötigen Wasser, vor allem im Frühling während der Brutaufzucht und im Sommer bei grosser Hitze. Der richtige Reflex ist einfach: eine stabile, flache Tränke mit Aufstiegshilfen, früh und dauerhaft verfügbar. Ein sehr leicht gesalzenes Wasser mit etwa 2 bis 3 g Salz pro Liter kann die Tränke attraktiver machen, ersetzt aber nicht die Notwendigkeit einer sicheren und regelmässigen Wasserquelle.

Siehe auch

• Welches Wasser für unsere Bienen?
• Das Sammeln und die Speicherung von Wasser
• Wassersammeln bei Honigbienen: Einfluss von Wetter und Volksgrösse
• Merkblatt: 2.9 Maikrankheit

What to do

• First observe the colony’s behaviour: activity at the hive entrance, pollen coming in, calm or unusual agitation.
• Open only if the weather allows and with a clear purpose: check laying and the state of the brood.
• Look for signs of recent laying: eggs, young larvae, regular open brood. There is no need to find the queen if laying is visible.
• Check whether emergency queen cells are present, often built on young larvae after the loss of the queen.
• Listen to the behaviour on opening: a queenless colony may be more nervous, with more pronounced roaring, but this sign alone is not proof.
• Take the context into account: period after swarming, young queen not yet mated, weather unfavourable for mating flights, temporary interruption of laying, or natural supersedure.
• If doubt persists, introduce a frame with eggs or very young larvae from a healthy colony. If the colony builds emergency queen cells on this frame, this generally confirms that it was queenless.
• Note the date, as timings matter: emergence of a young queen, mating flight, and the start of laying all take time.

If things do not go as expected

If no fresh laying is visible just after a swarm or after the probable emergence of a young queen, wait patiently. A young queen may need time before she starts to lay.

If the colony becomes drone-laying, with several eggs per cell, eggs on the cell walls, or only drone brood, the situation is harder to correct. A drone-laying colony is not simply a recently queenless colony.

If the colony is weak, without laying, without viable queen cells, and without clear prospects, it is often better to unite it with a healthy colony or destroy it cleanly depending on the situation, rather than trying to save it at any cost.

Before introducing a queen, first make sure that the colony is genuinely queenless and does not already have a young virgin queen. A queen introduced into a colony that already has a queen, even one not yet laying, is likely to be rejected or killed.

In case of a health concern, suspect brood, or abnormal mortality, do not move combs to other colonies and seek advice before intervening.

What to avoid

• Searching at length for the queen when eggs or young larvae already prove that she has laid recently.
• Declaring a colony queenless solely because the queen has not been seen.
• Destroying all queen cells when the colony is perhaps trying to raise a new queen.
• Introducing a purchased queen without checking whether a young queen is already present.
• Opening too often during the mating period of a young queen.
• Confusing a recently queenless colony with a colony that has already become drone-laying.
• Uniting a suspect colony with a healthy one.

Key points

To recognise a queenless colony, the first thing to look for is the absence of recent laying, not only the absence of a visible queen. The most useful sign is often simple: if there are eggs or very young larvae, a queen has laid recently. If there are none and doubt persists, a test frame with very young larvae can help to confirm the situation.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.7.4 Managing queenless colonies
• Queen cells
• How to introduce queens?
• The drone-laying colony

What to do

• First identify the type of situation before intervening.
• If these are only small empty queen cups, without egg or larva, there is not necessarily any urgency. Continue to monitor.
• If the cells contain an egg, a larva, or a lot of royal jelly, they are started: the colony is really preparing something.
• Look at the number and position of the cells: numerous cells, often along the edges or at the bottom of frames, in a strong colony in spring suggest a swarming impulse.
• Check whether there are still fresh eggs or very young brood. This indicates that a queen has laid recently, even if you do not see her.
• Assess colony strength and available space: lack of space, brood nest blocked with nectar, a very dense colony, and favourable weather increase the risk of swarming.
• Take the stage of the cells into account: the more advanced they are, the more quickly and precisely action must be taken.
• If the colony is in swarming mood, reduce the pressure: form an artificial swarm, carry out a split, or apply a method suited to your management.
• If you cannot tell the situations apart, close the hive calmly and seek advice before removing all the cells.

If things do not go as expected

If the queen cells are already capped, the risk of swarming is high. The prime swarm may already have left or may leave very soon if the weather allows. In this case, check whether fresh eggs are still present, whether the old queen is still in the colony, and which method to apply.

If you no longer find any fresh eggs and the colony appears queenless, do not destroy the remaining queen cells. They may be the only opportunity for the colony to raise a new queen.

If you find only one or two well-placed cells, with a calm colony and still a laying queen, it may be a natural queen replacement (supersedure). In this case, a too brutal intervention may create more problems than it solves.

If the colony is very strong, full of bees, and shows several advanced queen cells, do not simply break the cells. The swarming dynamic has often been under way for several days. The cause must be addressed: excessive density, lack of space, or the need for a split.

What to avoid

• Destroying all queen cells without understanding why they are there.
• Confusing empty queen cups with genuine started queen cells.
• Breaking the cells of a colony that may no longer have a queen.
• Believing that removing the cells is always enough to prevent swarming.
• Waiting several days without acting when a strong colony shows advanced queen cells.
• Splitting a weak colony solely because it has a queen cell.
• Opening at length and searching for the queen unnecessarily when fresh eggs already provide sufficient information.

Key points

A queen cell is a signal, not an answer in itself. Before acting, it must be understood whether the colony wants to swarm, to replace its queen, or to recover from queenlessness. The practical rule: observe the context, do not break everything automatically, and act quickly if a strong colony is genuinely in swarming mood.

See also

• Queen cells
• All about swarming
• Practical Guide: 1.4.7 Increase from swarming impulse
• Practical Guide: 4.7.4 Managing queenless colonies

What to do

• First observe the swarm without disturbing it: size of the cluster, height, accessibility, stability of the support, possible danger to people.
• Prepare the equipment before intervening: swarm box or nucleus box, frames, cloth or light-coloured surface if useful, protective clothing, smoker ready but used sparingly.
• If the swarm is easily accessible, knock or brush it gently into a swarm box or a nucleus box.
• Then place the box or the nucleus box close to the spot where the swarm had settled, with a sufficient opening so that the remaining bees can join the cluster.
• Observe the behaviour: if the bees fan at the entrance and gradually enter, the queen is usually inside.
• After collection, place the swarm in the shade, then in cellar confinement or in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place.
• For a freshly issued swarm, about two days of cellar confinement without feeding is generally possible. This allows the bees to consume their stores and empty their gut before hiving: it limits the risk of soiling the new hive and of introducing infectious agents along with the faeces.
• If the swarm is small, already weakened, has stayed outside for more than a day, or is of uncertain origin, monitor it closely. If the bees grow weak, fall to the bottom of the box, or the first bees start to die, give a little syrup immediately. In this case, feeding usually takes place after about 24 hours rather than waiting systematically for two days.
• Hive the swarm in a clean hive, with suitable frames. Do so preferably in the evening or under calm conditions.
• After hiving, feed in moderation if the nectar flow is not sufficient or if the swarm needs to build comb quickly.
• Take advantage of the fact that the swarm has no capped brood yet to plan varroa control. An oxalic acid spray treatment may be considered at the appropriate time, only with an authorised product and according to the official package leaflet.
• If the swarm probably comes from your own apiary, then check the parent colony at the right moment: presence of queen cells, remaining strength, risk of cast swarms, food stores, and general condition.

If things do not go as expected

If the swarm is too high, in a dangerous place, or hard to reach, do not take any risk. A fall, an unstable ladder, or an improvised intervention can be more serious than losing the swarm. Ask for help or give it up.

If the swarm leaves again, this is often because the queen was not in the box, the location was not suitable, or the swarm had not yet settled. Calmly check what remains on the spot.

If the bees do not enter the box, place it closer to the cluster or start over with more care. Avoid rough handling.

If the swarm has settled on a neighbour’s property or on land that is not yours, ask permission before intervening.

After a prime swarm has left, the parent colony must also be checked at the right time. If no young queen has yet emerged and several queen cells are present, leave one good queen cell, or at most two if their quality is uncertain. Leaving too many cells can favour cast swarms. Handle with care, as advanced queen cells are sensitive to shocks.

If a young queen has already emerged, avoid destroying all the cells without understanding the situation. An overly rough intervention may leave the colony with no replacement if the young queen is lost on the mating flight.

If several swarms issue from the same apiary, swarm management must be reviewed promptly: queen cells, available space, colonies that are too strong, inspections too far apart.

What to avoid

• Rushing without the equipment ready.
• Climbing an unstable ladder or intervening in a dangerous place.
• Spraying, smoking, or shaking the swarm excessively.
• Capturing a swarm without knowing where to install it afterwards.
• Mechanically applying two days of cellar confinement without considering the actual condition of the swarm: a fresh swarm can wait, but a swarm that is already weakened must be monitored and fed earlier if necessary.
• Feeding abundantly before knowing whether the swarm is fresh, weakened, or of uncertain origin.
• Carrying out an oxalic acid treatment without observing the package leaflet of the authorised product, personal protection, and the appropriate timing.
• Forgetting the parent colony: after a prime swarm, queen cells often remain in the hive.
• Leaving numerous queen cells in the parent colony without controlling the risk of cast swarms.
• Destroying all queen cells in the parent colony without understanding the situation.
• Uniting a swarm of unknown origin directly with a healthy colony.

Key points

A settled swarm can often be collected easily if the intervention is calm, safe, and well prepared. But collecting the swarm is only half the work: cellar confinement must also be handled, feeding done at the right time according to the swarm’s condition, varroa control planned, and the parent colony checked to prevent cast swarms or a poor recovery.

See also

• Practical Guide: 1.4.6 Swarm
• All about swarming
• Practical Guide: 4.7.5 Managing the swarming impulse
• Practical Guide: 1.4.7 Increase from swarming impulse

What to do

• Monitor mainly strong colonies in spring and early summer.
• Give space in time: add the super at the right moment, prevent nectar from blocking the brood nest, and maintain space for laying.
• Feed only if necessary. In the spring, excessive feeding syrup can stimulate the colony, occupy cells in the brood nest, and intensify swarming behavior if the lack of space is not addressed.
• During inspections, look for signs of the swarming impulse: very dense colony, queen cells, slower laying, lack of space.
• During the risk period, check the strongest colonies about once a week if the weather allows.
• After a long period of bad weather, inspect strong colonies as soon as favourable weather returns: the bees may have been preparing to swarm during the days they could not fly.
• If a colony becomes too strong, form a young colony or an artificial swarm rather than waiting for a natural swarm to leave.

If things do not go as planned

If queen cells are already well developed, the colony is probably already engaged in the swarming impulse. In that case, breaking the queen cells is not enough: the pressure in the colony must be reduced, for example by making a split or an artificial swarm, with proper follow-up of the new colony. The key point is not to confuse suppressing the signs with solving the cause.

What to avoid

• Waiting until you see a swarm hanging from a branch before acting.
• Believing that swarming starts on the day the swarm leaves: it has often been prepared several days before.
• Destroying queen cells without correcting the lack of space or the over-population.
• Adding the super too late, when the brood nest is already blocked.
• Splitting a weak or poorly followed colony solely to prevent swarming.
• Feeding the colony heavily with syrup in the spring without checking its stores, available space, and actual strength.

Key point

The best anti-swarming approach is anticipation: space at the right time, targeted inspections and early splitting of overly strong colonies.

See also

• All about swarming
• Understanding swarming
• Practical Guide: 4.7.5 Managing the swarming impulse
• Practical Guide: 1.4.7 Split of a colony in swarming mood

What to do

• Choose the right moment: generally in spring or early summer, when the colonies are strong and the weather allows good development.
• Take only from a strong, healthy, and well-developed colony. A donor colony must not be weakened to the point of compromising its own season.
• Prepare the equipment before starting: nucleus box or clean hive, division board, suitable frames, food if needed, hive record card.
• For a simple method, form the nucleus colony with three frames well covered with bees.
• Take one frame with eggs or very young larvae, ideally no more than 1 to 2 days old, to allow a queen to be raised.
• Add one frame of capped brood, if possible close to emergence, to reinforce the nucleus colony quickly.
• Add one food frame, with honey and pollen, to ensure a good start.
• Keep the bees that are on these frames, but check carefully that the queen of the donor colony is not among them.
• Confine the nucleus colony with a division board so that it can keep the brood warm.
• Reduce the hive entrance at first, to limit robbing and help the nucleus colony defend itself.
• If the nucleus colony remains at the same apiary, some of the foragers will return to the parent colony. Enough young bees must therefore be present on the frames, or the nucleus colony must be moved depending on the method used.
• Monitor food stores, especially if the weather turns cold or wet.
• Then allow the time needed for rearing, emergence, the mating flight, and the start of laying by the young queen. During this period, avoid opening too often.
• Later, check that the nucleus colony is laying and that the brood is developing normally.

If things do not go as expected

If the nucleus colony seems too weak from the start, do not enlarge it. Confine it, check the food stores, and avoid long inspections.

If no queen cell is built, check that the nucleus colony really had eggs or very young larvae. Without a mated queen, without a ripe queen cell, and without very young larvae, it has no clear path to becoming self-sufficient.

If no laying starts after the normal period for rearing, emergence, and mating of the young queen, act quickly: introduce a queen, unite with a healthy colony, or seek advice depending on the situation.

If the weather turns cold or wet, monitor the food stores. A nucleus colony can run out of food faster than a strong colony.

If too much brood or too many bees have been taken from the donor colony, that colony may also be weakened. Forming nucleus colonies should strengthen the apiary in the medium term, not create several fragile colonies.

If suspect brood, an abnormal smell, or unusual mortality is observed, do not move combs to other colonies. Seek advice before any uniting or redistribution of material.

What to avoid

• Forming a nucleus colony from a weak colony.
• Creating too many nucleus colonies with too few bees each.
• Taking brood without checking the health status of the donor colony.
• Inadvertently taking the queen of the donor colony along with the removed frames.
• Forming a nucleus colony without eggs, without very young larvae, without a mated queen, and without a ripe queen cell.
• Leaving a nucleus colony without food stores during a period of poor weather.
• Opening too often to “see if the queen is already laying”.
• Forming nucleus colonies too late in the season, without enough time for them to become strong before overwintering.
• Uniting or reinforcing a nucleus colony with material from a suspect colony.

Key points

A nucleus colony rarely succeeds by chance. For a simple method, start from three frames well covered with bees: very young larvae, capped brood, and food. It is better to form a few solid nucleus colonies than many small, fragile ones.

See also

• Forming nucleus colonies
• Practical Guide: 1.4 Overview of methods for forming nucleus colonies
• Practical Guide: 1.4.4 Nucleus colonies with brood

What to do

• Choose a strong, healthy and calm colony with a good laying queen.
• Prepare a well-ventilated 6-frame nucleus box.
• Place against one wall a food frame with honey and pollen, together with the bees on it, but without brood and without the queen.
• Leave a free space right next to it for the grafting frame.
• Add an old, drawn empty comb well moistened with water, or a water frame, to provide water for the nurse bees.
• Shake into the nucleus box the young nurse bees from 3 to 4 frames of open brood, carefully checking that the queen is not among the shaken bees.
• Reduce the space with a division board.
• Fix a transparent plastic film on top of the starter, instead of the crown board, without blocking the ventilation.
• Close the starter and place it in a cool, dark place for at least a few hours, so that the bees feel queenless.
• On the day of grafting, cut a long slit in the plastic film with a cutter, at the location reserved for the grafting frame.
• Quickly introduce the grafting frame with the very young grafted larvae, then press the film around the frame to limit the bees streaming out.
• Let the closed starter take up the grafted cells for about 24 hours, then transfer the frame to a finisher colony.

If things do not go as planned

If the bees become very agitated, stream out, overheat or reject the larvae, the starter is often badly balanced: too few young nurse bees, lack of water, lack of food, insufficient ventilation, accidental presence of the queen or presence of brood. In that case, it is better to correct the setup and start a small batch again rather than force the rearing.

What to avoid

• Putting brood in the closed starter: the bees might raise their own larvae instead of the grafted ones.
• Accidentally taking the queen with the shaken bees.
• Using larvae that are too old: the best larvae are very young, ideally less than 24 hours old.
• Opening the whole top of the starter when introducing the grafting frame: many bees may stream out.
• Using plastic film that blocks ventilation.
• Keeping the starter closed for too long, especially in hot weather.

Key point

A good closed starter is a temporary nucleus box, very rich in young nurse bees, without queen and without brood, used only to start queen rearing for about 24 hours.

See also

• Nucleus formation and queen rearing
• Principles and methods of queen rearing
• F1 queen rearing
• Queen cells

What to do

• Select only colonies without any suspect health sign.
• Avoid uniting a very weak, sick, drone-laying or heavily varroa-infested colony with a healthy one.
• Unite preferably at a favourable time: spring, late summer or early autumn, in calm weather, while the colonies can still reorganise.
• Make sure that food stores are sufficient and that the varroa situation is under control.
• Decide which queen to keep: keep the youngest, the best-performing or the most reliable queen.
• If both colonies have a laying queen, remove the queen that is not to be kept before uniting.
• Place the colony to be kept on the bottom.
• Lay a sheet of newspaper on the frames, with a few small openings.
• Place the second colony on top, with its frames and bees.
• Close the hive properly and reduce the entrance if there is a risk of robbing.
• A few days later, check that the bees have united calmly, that the retained queen has been accepted and that the colony is functioning normally.
• Rearrange the frames afterwards if necessary, without chilling the brood.

If things do not go as expected

If one of the colonies shows suspect brood, an abnormal smell, unusual mortality or any other health doubt, it must not be united with another colony. The advice of the bee inspector or a competent person must be sought first.

If the colony is simply too weak, uniting may be useful, but only if it is healthy. Two weaknesses must not be added together in the hope of automatically producing a strong colony. At the end of the season, it is often better to unite a small healthy colony with a stronger one than to overwinter two inadequate colonies.

Other methods exist, such as direct uniting or the protected introduction of a queen, but for straightforward colony management the newspaper unite by stacking remains the safest method and the easiest to monitor.

If uniting fails or the queen disappears, do not multiply handlings. Calmly check a few days later for the presence of eggs or young brood. If the colony becomes queenless, the course of action will depend on the season, the remaining strength and the availability of a queen.

What to avoid

• Uniting two weak colonies in the belief that this is enough to create a strong colony.
• Uniting a suspect colony with a healthy one.
• Uniting a heavily varroa-infested colony without first correcting the problem.
• Uniting in the middle of winter or in cold weather.
• Uniting without knowing which queen is to be kept.
• Leaving two queens in unmonitored competition.
• Uniting two colonies directly, without transition, when they are nervous or the situation is unclear.
• Shaking the bees roughly or mixing the frames directly without preparation.
• Uniting during a heavy robbing period without reducing the entrance.
• Using uniting to mask a health problem or poor winter preparation.

Key takeaways

Uniting two colonies is a good solution only if it produces a healthy, sufficiently strong and well-organised colony. Uniting must be gentle, prepared and monitored. In case of a health doubt, do not unite: seek advice first.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.7.1 Uniting colonies
• Uniting bee colonies
• Practical Guide: 4.7.4 Managing queenless colonies
• Practical Guide: 4.3 Overwintering
• September at the apiary

What to do

• Choose a healthy, calm and viable receiving colony.
• Make sure there is no suspect health sign: abnormal brood, suspect smell or unusual mortality.
• Remove the old queen if she is still present.
• After removing the old queen, wait a few hours, often until the following day, so that the colony perceives queenlessness.
• Do not wait several days without checking: the colony may begin emergency queen rearing and accept the new queen less readily.
• Check that the colony does not already contain a virgin queen or a laying queen.
• Remove queen cells before introduction, particularly if the colony has already started emergency queen rearing.
• Place the new queen in her cage, with gradual release through candy or a feeding plug, depending on the type of cage.
• Place the cage between two frames well covered with bees, ideally near the brood.
• Close the hive and disturb it as little as possible during the first few days.
• Leave the colony undisturbed for at least one week.
• After 7 to 10 days, carefully check acceptance, looking primarily for eggs or young brood.
• Do not search at length for the queen if the presence of laying confirms her presence.

If things do not go as expected

If the bees bite the cage heavily, form a tight ball around the queen or remain very aggressive, the queen must not be released. The colony is probably not ready: old queen still present, virgin queen already in the hive, queen cells overlooked, queenlessness too prolonged or doubtful health status.

If the queen has not been released after a few days, check the candy or the exit passage, but without keeping the hive open unnecessarily long. If she has disappeared and there is no laying after a reasonable delay, the colony must be reassessed before any further introduction is attempted.

If the colony is drone-laying, direct queen introduction rarely succeeds. In that case, it is better not to waste a valuable queen: dissolving the colony or starting again with a healthy colony is often safer.

Other methods exist, for instance introduction on emerging brood with a push-in cage, or introduction of the queen into a small, well-prepared nucleus colony before a later uniting. They can be useful, especially for a valuable queen, but require more experience. For straightforward colony management, the introduction cage with gradual release through candy remains the basic method.

What to avoid

• Releasing a queen directly onto the frames.
• Introducing a queen without verifying the absence of the old queen.
• Introducing a queen into a colony that already has a virgin queen.
• Waiting several days after removing the old queen without checking for queen cells.
• Forgetting to remove queen cells before introduction.
• Introducing a queen into a drone-laying colony.
• Introducing a queen into a suspect, sick or very weak colony.
• Checking too early or too often after introduction.
• Searching at length for the queen when eggs or young brood confirm her presence.
• Investing a valuable queen in a colony that is too weak or poorly prepared.
• Relying on tricks such as scent, syrup or heavy smoke rather than on proper preparation of the colony.

Key takeaways

A queen is introduced protected, gradually and into a well-prepared colony. After removing the old queen, wait a few hours, often until the following day, then introduce the new queen in a cage. The first real check is carried out after about one week, looking primarily for eggs or young brood. In case of doubt about queenlessness, the presence of a young queen or the health status, the situation must be clarified before introducing.

See also

• How to introduce queens?
• Practical Guide: 4.7.4 Managing queenless colonies
• The drone-laying colony
• Practical Guide: 4.7.1 Uniting colonies
• Practical Guide: 4.7.2 Requeening

What to do

• Observe the supers, not just the calendar.
• Choose a dry day, if possible after a rain-free period.
• Check that the super frames are mostly capped.
• Perform the shake test on the uncapped areas: if nectar runs out, do not harvest that frame.
• If you have a refractometer, measure the water content on several frames of the same super.
• Plan the last harvest in such a way as not to delay the important late-season steps: varroa monitoring, treatment if needed, feeding and preparation for overwintering.
• Remove the supers and cover them quickly to prevent moisture uptake and robbing.
• Extract the honey the same day or the next day, in a clean and dry extraction room.

If things do not go as planned

If some frames are ripe and others are not, do not harvest the whole super automatically. Take only the ready frames, or leave the super a few more days. But at the end of the season, do not wait too long: a late harvest can shorten the time available to protect winter bees against varroa and to properly complete the food stores. For honeys that crystallise quickly, such as rapeseed or some spring honeys, close monitoring is also needed: waiting too long can make extraction difficult.

What to avoid

• Harvesting just because "it's the time of year".
• Harvesting right after several rainy days or in high humidity.
• Relying solely on capping without checking if the nectar flow has been very abundant.
• Mixing ripe frames with frames that are still too moist.
• Extracting frames that have already contained brood.
• Postponing the last harvest to the point of delaying varroa treatment or late-season feeding.
• Waiting for the last few grams of honey if this compromises the preparation of winter bees.

Key point

The right harvest begins when the honey is ripe, but it must not delay the preparation of winter bees.

See also

• The honey harvest
• Controlling the water content of honey
• Calibrating the refractometer
• August at the apiary

What to do

• Prepare the room before going to the apiary: it must be clean, dry, bee-proof, easy to clean, and free of strong smells.
• Prepare the equipment: clean clothing, clearer board or soft bee brush, sealable containers or supers, super covers, uncapping knife or fork, uncapping tray, extractor, double honey strainer or sieve, settling tank with tap, clean jars, lids, and labels.
• Check that the honey is ripe before harvesting: frames well capped, shake test if needed, and refractometer measurement if available.
• For honey with good keeping quality, aim for at most 18 % water; the lower the value, the better the honey keeps.
• Remove the supers calmly, with as little smoke as possible. Honey readily absorbs smells, including smoke.
• Cover the removed supers immediately to prevent robbing, uptake of moisture, and intrusion of foreign bees.
• Take the supers promptly to the extraction room.
• Extract the honey as soon as possible, ideally the same day. Some honeys, in particular spring or rapeseed honeys, can crystallise quickly in the frames and become difficult to extract.
• Uncap the frames cleanly, collecting the cappings in a suitable tray.
• Extract the honey with the extractor, without abrupt movements that break the combs.
• Strain the honey to remove pieces of wax and visible impurities.
• Pour the honey into a clean, closed settling tank, then leave it to settle so that air bubbles and small particles rise to the top.
• Skim if necessary.
• Prepare the jars: use clean jars, sterilised if possible, for example in a steam oven. The jars must then be perfectly dry, as honey absorbs moisture.
• Fill into clean, dry, and well-sealed containers.
• Label correctly in accordance with legal requirements and applicable regulations: origin, batch, weight, contact details, date, or the information required according to the mode of supply or sale.
• Store the honey in a dark, dry, clean place, free of strong smells, ideally below 14 °C.
• Clean the equipment promptly after the harvest and handle the extracted frames according to a clean method.

If things do not go as expected

If the honey appears too moist, do not fill it into jars as honey intended for keeping. Measure the water content if possible and separate doubtful batches from well-ripened ones.

If the water content exceeds 18 %, do not fill this honey into jars as honey intended for keeping. Keep the batch separate, seek advice if necessary, and avoid mixing it with a well-ripened honey.

If the honey crystallises quickly in the frames, do not wait to extract. Some spring or rapeseed honeys can become very difficult to extract if they remain too long in the frames.

If bees enter the extraction room, look immediately for the source: open door, super not properly covered, accessible smell of honey. Close, cover, and clean any spills.

If a strong smell is present in the room — smoke, cellar air, heating oil, fuel, chemicals — do not store the supers or the honey there. Honey readily takes on smells.

If frames contain brood, do not extract them. Super frames intended for honey must remain separate from frames that have contained brood.

If the jars have been washed or sterilised but remain damp, wait until they are perfectly dry before filling. Honey is hygroscopic: it readily absorbs moisture.

If the equipment is not ready, it is better to postpone the harvest than to remove the supers without being able to protect and handle them properly.

What to avoid

• Starting the harvest without a clean room or with the equipment not ready.
• Harvesting frames containing brood.
• Leaving the supers open at the apiary or in the room.
• Using a lot of smoke in honey supers.
• Storing the supers in a damp room or one with strong smells.
• Mixing doubtful frames with a sound honey batch.
• Extracting frames that are too moist without checking.
• Filling into jars a honey with more than 18 % water without corrective measures or competent advice.
• Using jars that are still damp.
• Waiting unnecessarily before extraction, especially with honeys that crystallise quickly.
• Filling into damp, dirty, or poorly sealed containers.
• Labelling approximately or without complying with legal requirements.
• Storing the honey in light, in a warm or damp room, or in one with strong smells.
• Forgetting traceability: date, apiary, batch, quantity, and important observations.

Key points

A good harvest is not only the moment when the supers are removed. It is a complete chain: ripeness of the honey, prompt extraction, hygiene, straining, settling, jar filling, labelling, and storage. The simple benchmarks are: honey with at most 18 % water, clean and perfectly dry jars, prompt extraction, compliant labelling, dark and cool storage, ideally below 14 °C.

See also

• The honey harvest
• Managing the water content of honey
• Calibrating the refractometer
• Optimising good beekeeping practice for honey production

What to do

• Prepare the equipment before opening: clearer board, crown board or super cover, closed box or container, soft brush, possibly a bee blower, clean clothing, and a ready extraction room.
• Choose a suitable moment: dry weather, little wind, and avoid periods when the risk of robbing is high.
• Place the clearer board the day before the harvest, between the brood box and the super to be harvested, depending on the model used.
• Check that the super does not contain brood. A super containing brood is not harvested in the same way as a super of honey ready for extraction.
• On the day of the harvest, remove the super as soon as most of the bees have gone down.
• Gently brush off the remaining bees if necessary, frame by frame or on top of the super, without abrupt movements.
• A bee blower can also be used, especially if many bees remain in the supers. It must be used with care, as it is more abrupt and may increase agitation at the apiary.
• Use smoke only when necessary, and always very sparingly. Honey readily absorbs smells: smoke, cellar air, fuel, heating oil, chemicals, or strong odours can affect its taste.
• Cover the removed supers immediately to prevent robbing, uptake of moisture, and intrusion of foreign bees.
• Take the supers promptly to the extraction room.
• Extract the honey as soon as possible, ideally the same day, especially for honeys that crystallise quickly.
• Keep the super frames separate from frames that have contained brood.

If things do not go as expected

If many bees remain in the super despite the clearer board, first check that it is correctly placed and that the passage downwards is clear. A super with brood, a queen present above the clearer board, or incorrect positioning of the clearer board may explain the problem.

If the harvest triggers strong agitation or robbing, close the hive quickly, cover the supers, and reduce honey smells at the apiary. It is better to resume later under better conditions than to set off widespread robbing.

If the super contains brood, do not extract those frames. Check the presence and position of the queen excluder, then wait for the brood to emerge or handle these frames separately according to a clean and safe method.

If the frames are not well capped or if the honey appears too moist, do not automatically harvest the whole super. Take only the ripe frames or wait, while keeping in mind the end-of-season requirements: varroa treatment, autumn feeding, and preparation of the winter bees.

If the honey is likely to crystallise quickly in the frames, in particular for certain spring or rapeseed honeys, organise extraction without delay. Crystallisation in the frames makes extraction difficult or even impossible with the usual means.

What to avoid

• Shaking super frames roughly above the hive.
• Leaving supers open at the apiary.
• Harvesting during a marked dearth without precautions against robbing.
• Using smoke systematically in honey supers.
• Storing the supers in a damp room or one with strong smells.
• Waiting too long before extraction, especially with spring honeys or honeys that crystallise quickly.
• Blowing the bees carelessly, at the risk of causing agitation or robbing.
• Harvesting frames that contain brood.
• Mixing super frames with brood-chamber frames that have contained brood.
• Leaving the harvested supers exposed to moisture or accessible to bees.
• Starting the harvest without a clean room, ready equipment, and sealable containers.

Key points

A good harvest begins before extraction: remove the supers with as little stress as possible, avoid robbing, sharply limit smoke, protect the honey from moisture and smells, then extract quickly. The clearer board placed the day before is often the gentlest solution for clearing bees from the supers.

See also

• The honey harvest
• Managing the water content of honey
• Optimising good beekeeping practice for honey production
• Beekeeping and honey law in Switzerland

What to do

• After extraction, keep the super frames out of reach of bees, in a closed, clean, dry room without strong smells.
• Before the harvest, number the supers, for example with adhesive tape or a clear mark matching the hive number. This makes it possible to put each super back on its parent colony if the bees are to clean them.
• Never leave the frames to be licked clean in the open. This favours robbing and can contribute to the spreading of health issues.
• If the frames are to be cleaned by the bees, put the super back briefly only on the colony it came from, then remove it as soon as the frames are dry and clean.
• Carry out this cleaning before autumn feeding and before treatments that are not compatible with the presence of supers intended for the harvest.
• Sort the frames before storage: keep only light-coloured, dry, sound super frames without brood and without pollen.
• Melt down frames that have contained brood, frames with pollen, mouldy frames, severely damaged or doubtful frames, and frames heavily attacked by wax moth.
• Store the supers in a dry, well-ventilated, ideally light, smell-free place, sheltered from rain.
• Encourage air circulation: the frames should not be packed tightly together.
• In a stack hive, the supers can be stored as a stack of supers, sheltered from the weather, with about 10 cm of clearance above the ground and a mesh on top and bottom that is fully proof against bees, wasps, mice, and other intruders.
• Store cool if possible. Below 12 °C, wax moth does not normally cause damage.
• If a freezer is available, 48 hours at −18 °C strongly reduces the wax moth risk. This is particularly useful for doubtful but still usable frames or before prolonged storage.
• Check the frames during storage. If wax moth frass, tunnels, silken threads, or masses of cocoons appear, sort them out immediately.

If things do not go as expected

If bees become very agitated around the room, the supers, or the equipment, there is probably an accessible smell of honey. Close immediately, cover the frames, and avoid any handling that sustains the robbing.

If frames ferment, become mouldy, or smell bad, do not put them back into a super intended for the harvest. Doubtful frames must be set aside or melted down.

If wax moth appears during storage, sort the frames promptly. Slightly affected frames can sometimes be frozen for 48 hours at −18 °C if the wax is still sound. Frames with masses of cocoons, extensive tunnels, or severe damage must be melted down.

If autumn feeding or a treatment has already begun, do not put back the supers intended for the harvest without checking that this remains compatible with clean and compliant honey production.

If the supers were not numbered before the harvest, avoid putting them on other colonies for cleaning. Store them cleanly or sort them according to their condition, but do not lose traceability any further.

What to avoid

• Leaving extracted frames outdoors for the bees to clean.
• Leaving open supers at the apiary.
• Putting an extracted super back on a colony other than the one it came from.
• Mixing unidentified supers after extraction: without numbering, traceability is lost.
• Allowing the bees to lick the frames in the midst of a dearth without precautions against robbing.
• Putting supers back for cleaning after the start of autumn feeding or of an incompatible treatment.
• Storing still-damp frames in a closed, poorly ventilated room.
• Storing super frames that have contained brood or pollen.
• Stacking full supers tightly together without air circulation.
• Storing the supers directly on the ground, in a damp room, or in a room with strong smells.
• Keeping mouldy, broken, wax-moth-infested frames, or frames that have contained brood, for a future honey harvest.
• Believing that freezing repairs a severely affected frame: frames with masses of cocoons or severe damage must be melted down.
• Mixing super frames with brood-chamber frames.
• Storing the frames in a place that smells of smoke, fuel, heating oil, chemicals, or other strong substances: wax and honey readily absorb smells.

Key points

After extraction, super frames must be protected, sorted, and stored promptly. The safest approach is to keep each super linked to its parent colony. If the bees are to clean the frames, this is done briefly on that same colony, never in the open. For storage, keep only light-coloured, dry frames without brood and without pollen; cold temperatures help greatly, since below 12 °C the wax moth does not develop, and 48 hours at −18 °C strongly reduce the risk before storage.

See also

• The honey harvest
• Practical Guide: 4.4.2 Comb storage
• Practical Guide: 2.6 Wax moth
• Practical Guide: 4.4 Comb renewal

What to do

• Begin with outside observation: activity at the entrance, incoming pollen, calm behaviour or unusual agitation, bee mortality in front of the hive.
• Open only when the weather allows, with a clear objective, and avoid lengthy inspections.
• Choose a frame from the centre of the brood nest, possibly two. This is often the best indicator of the colony's overall condition.
• First, assess the colony strength: is the frame well covered with bees? Do the bees occupy several seams? A healthy colony gives an impression of density appropriate to the season.
• Look for recent laying: eggs, young larvae, open brood. There is no need to see the queen if fresh eggs are visible.
• Examine the brood: healthy brood is generally compact, with pearly-white, well-fed larvae and evenly capped brood. Some irregularity may be normal, but a markedly patchy brood – for instance with more than 15% of cells uncapped – should attract attention.
• Check the food stores close to the brood: nectar arch above the brood, honey and pollen stores in the frame adjoining the last brood frame. A colony may have a queen and brood and yet lack food.
• Observe behaviour: calm, active bees that cover the brood well are generally a good sign.
• Record the observations on the hive record card: colony strength, brood, incoming forage, food stores, presence of eggs, any anomalies.

If things do not go as expected

If the central frame shows plenty of bees, eggs or young larvae, compact brood and food stores, there is often no need to go further. Closing up calmly limits stress on the colony.

If you do not see eggs or very young brood, do not jump to conclusions. Depending on the season, the weather, a recent swarming event or requeening, laying may be temporarily interrupted. Record the situation and check again at the right moment in a targeted way.

If the brood is markedly patchy, if larvae are sunken, brownish, dried out or calcified, if cappings are perforated or sunken, or if there is an abnormal smell, do not try to "correct" the situation immediately. Take one or more photos of the suspect frames. Close the hive, do not move frames to other colonies, and ask the bee inspector for your area for advice.

If you observe bees with deformed wings, uncapped pupae, large numbers of dead bees, faecal spotting or repeated signs of weakening, the colony deserves a more thorough check, particularly regarding the varroa situation and overall health status.

If you hesitate between normal and suspect, photograph the suspect frames and seek the opinion of an experienced beekeeper or the bee inspector. The aim is not to make a precise diagnosis on your own, but to identify significant health problems.

What to avoid

• Systematically searching for the queen when fresh laying already provides the key information.
• Reviewing every frame when a central frame already shows a colony in clearly good condition.
• Ignoring markedly patchy brood, an abnormal smell or suspect larvae.
• Moving a doubtful frame to another colony.
• Uniting a suspect colony with a healthy one.
• Treating at random without knowing which problem you are trying to correct.
• Repeating inspections out of uncertainty: it is better to seek advice than to stress the colony further.

Key takeaways

The right reflex is not to know every disease by heart, but to be able to recognise a colony that looks healthy. A central frame well covered with bees, with brood of several ages, eggs or young larvae, compact brood and food stores nearby, often gives a sufficient answer: the colony is probably doing well. It is the clear departures from this picture that should make you pay attention and trigger further checking or a request for help.

Fig.: healthy bee colony

► Train your visual skills with our quiz on diseases

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.7.3 Recognising healthy colonies
• Practical Guide (poster): 2 How to recognise diseases
• Practical Guide: 2 Diseases and pests
• Ten tips for a thorough colony inspection

Markers throughout the year

What to do

• Treat varroa control as year-round monitoring, not as an isolated action.
• In spring, use drone brood removal if it is well mastered and integrated into apiary management.
• Monitor infestation regularly, in particular through the natural mite drop.
• After the last harvest, remove the supers and do not delay the first summer treatment.
• Give a small transition feeding after the supers have been removed, then treat quickly.
• Plan the second summer treatment early enough, ideally at the beginning of September and at the latest around mid-September.
• Carry out the winter treatment only when the colony is free of capped brood.
• Use only authorised methods and preparations, following the official instructions.

If things do not go as planned

If a critical threshold is exceeded, do not mechanically wait for the next step in the calendar. The course of action depends on the time of year: at the start of the season, an emergency measure may be needed; in late autumn, a complementary oxalic acid treatment may be indicated even if some brood is still present.

If a late harvest delays the first summer treatment, priorities need to be reviewed. A few extra kilograms of honey do not justify compromising the health of winter bees. The right time to protect winter bees is mainly in summer, not only at the winter treatment.

What to avoid

• Thinking that a single treatment is enough for the whole year.
• Discovering varroa only in autumn.
• Delaying the first summer treatment to extend the harvest.
• Forgetting that drone brood removal is an aid, not a replacement for necessary treatments.
• Relying on the winter treatment to correct poor summer management.
• Treating with supers intended for harvest still in place.
• Using an unauthorised product or deviating from the official instructions.

Key point

The varroa management concept follows an annual logic: reduce, monitor, treat early in summer, confirm in late summer, finish in winter. The key moment remains summer, because that is when the health of the future winter bees is decided.

See also

• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept
• Practical Guide: 1.2 Overview of summer treatment methods
• Practical Guide: 1.5.1 Measuring the natural mite drop
• Practical Guide: 1.6.6 Infestation-based varroa treatment

What to do

• Use a clean varroa floor insert, if possible light-coloured or with a grid pattern.
• Protect the insert with a screen to prevent the bees from removing the mites.
• If ants are present, count every 2 days, clean or replace the insert, then add up all mites counted across the whole period.
• To reduce errors caused by ants, use, if necessary, a lightly oiled insert or a protected floor.
• Maintain a total counting period of at least 7 days, even if intermediate counts are made.
• Count only adult, dark-coloured mites.
• Divide the total number of mites by the exact number of counting days.
• Interpret the result according to the time of year, and not by a single threshold applied throughout the year.
• As a practical reference, the ZBF thresholds should be verified according to the season: at the end of May, a drop above 3 mites per day should raise concern; at the end of June or beginning of July, more than 10 mites per day calls for rapid action; at the end of October, more than 5 mites per day requires special attention.
• Record the result on the hive record card: date, duration of counting, total number of mites, daily average, particular weather conditions, and any recent treatment.
• Compare colonies in the same apiary: a colony clearly more infested than the others deserves particular attention.

If things do not go as expected

If counting is difficult, it is better to start again properly than to decide on the basis of a vague estimate. An insert that is too dirty, overrun by ants, left in place for too short a time or placed just after a treatment provides little reliable information. After a treatment, the drop observed is a post-treatment mite drop: it must not be confused with the natural mite drop.

If the natural mite drop is high, do not wait for visible signs on the bees. By the time bees with deformed wings appear, the infestation is often already problematic. The varroa management concept, the current Swiss recommendations and the authorised veterinary medicines should then be consulted.

The icing sugar method and the wash method can complement the assessment, but they require a sound sampling technique: a representative bee sample, the absence of the queen from the sample, suitable equipment and strict adherence to the protocol. For straightforward colony management, the natural mite drop remains the first, easily implemented reference point.

What to avoid

• Looking only at a few mites on the insert and drawing a conclusion without any calculation.
• Counting for only one or two days and taking the result as reliable.
• Making intermediate counts because of ants but forgetting to add them up.
• Forgetting to divide the total by the exact number of days.
• Comparing results obtained over different durations without converting them to a daily average.
• Letting ants or bees distort the count.
• Interpreting a count taken just after treatment as a natural mite drop.
• Using the same threshold all year round.
• Waiting for visible signs on the bees before reacting.
• Treating without checking the current Swiss recommendations and the authorised products.

Key takeaways

The right reflex is simple: a clean varroa floor insert, at least 7 days of counting, a daily average, and then a decision based on the season. When ants are present, count more often, but keep a sufficient total period. The measurement does not replace the varroa management concept, but it allows the colonies that need an intervention to be identified in time.

See also

• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept
• Practical Guide: 1.5.1 Measuring the natural mite drop
• Practical Guide: 1.5.2 Icing sugar method
• Practical Guide: 1.5.3 Wash method
• Practical Guide: 1.6.6 Infestation-based varroa treatment

Practical markers

What to do

• Place a clean varroa floor, if possible protected by a mesh.
• Count the natural mite drop over 2 days.
• Divide the total number of mites by the number of days to obtain a daily average.
• Compare this average with the markers for the season.
• If the result is close to a limit value, take a second 2-day count.
• If ants are present, check the floor after 24 to 48 hours or use a method that prevents ants from carrying the mites away.
• In case of a clear exceedance of a limit value, act without delay: check, authorised treatment, emergency treatment if necessary, or advice from the Bee Health Service.
• Record the results on the hive card to follow the colony's evolution.

If things do not go as planned

If ants are present on the varroa floor, the count may underestimate the infestation, since dead mites can be carried away. In that case, do not leave the floor for several days without checking. Better to count after 24 to 48 hours and repeat the measurement if the result is close to an intervention threshold.

If the threshold is exceeded in May, late June or early July, do not wait for the next normal treatment. The colony may already be too heavily infested. Quick action is needed, possibly through an emergency treatment, and advice should be sought before improvising.

If the threshold is exceeded in October, the colony risks entering winter with too high a varroa pressure. In that case, the normal winter treatment should not simply be awaited.

What to avoid

• Using the same threshold all year long.
• Deciding on a single counting day when the result is close to a limit value.
• Leaving the varroa floor in place for too long if ants can carry the mites away.
• Interpreting a low result as safe if the measurement has been disturbed.
• Feeling reassured because the colony looks strong: a strong colony can hide heavy infestation.
• Waiting for the next scheduled treatment while the situation may require an emergency treatment.
• Confusing the natural mite drop with post-treatment mite drop.

Key point

The right question is not only "how many mites?" but "how many mites at what time of year?". In practice, three markers are enough as warnings: more than 3 mites per day in late May, more than 10 mites per day in late June / early July, and more than 5 mites per day in October. A 2-day measurement is often a good practical compromise, especially if ants might distort the count.

See also

• Practical Guide: 1.5.1 Measuring the natural mite drop
• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept
• Practical Guide: 1.6.6 Infestation-based varroa treatment
• Practical Guide: 1.7.2 Emergency varroa treatment (Swiss hives)

What to do

• Plan the last harvest so that the treatment is not pushed beyond the end of July.
• Remove all supers intended for harvest before treating.
• Quickly give 2 to 3 litres of feeding syrup to avoid any food shortage after the supers have been removed.
• Then start the first summer treatment against varroa, with an authorised method suited to the weather conditions.
• Read and strictly follow the official instructions of the product used: dosage, duration, temperature, safety and conditions of use.
• Record the date of treatment on the hive card.
• Already plan the rest of the season: infestation monitoring, second summer treatment if needed, then preparation for overwintering.

If things do not go as planned

If the nectar flow continues or some frames are not yet quite ripe, the treatment must not be postponed indefinitely to gain 1 or 2 more kilograms of honey. That delay is often paid for with the health of the future winter bees. From the end of July, protecting the winter bees becomes the priority.

If the infestation is already high, action must be taken without delay: remove the supers, feed briefly if necessary, then treat with an authorised method. In case of doubt about the method, temperature or infestation level, seek advice from the Bee Health Service or an experienced person before improvising.

What to avoid

• Waiting until August or September to start the first summer treatment.
• Treating while supers intended for harvest are still on the hive.
• Postponing the treatment to extract another 1 or 2 kg of honey.
• Forgetting the small transition feed after the supers have been removed.
• Using an unauthorised product or deviating from the official instructions.
• Treating without considering temperature, especially with heat-sensitive treatments.

Key point

Before the end of July: supers removed, 2 to 3 litres of feeding syrup, then first summer treatment against varroa. The goal is to protect the winter bees, not to extend the harvest by a few kilos.

See also

• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept
• Practical Guide: 1.2 Overview of summer treatment methods
• Practical Guide: 1.5.1 Measuring the natural mite drop
• Veterinary medicines / preparations authorised in Switzerland

What to do

• After the first summer treatment, check that the colony still has access to food.
• Top up the food stores with feeding syrup between the first and second treatments.
• Organise the feeding in such a way that it does not delay the second treatment.
• Respect a sufficient interval between the end of the first treatment and the start of the second.
• Plan the second treatment so that it ideally starts at the beginning of September and at the latest around mid-September.
• Choose an authorised method suited to the weather conditions.
• Read and strictly follow the official instructions of the product used: dosage, duration, temperature, safety and conditions of use.
• Record the date of treatment on the hive card.
• After the treatment, check that the winter stores are sufficient and top up if necessary, as long as conditions allow.

If things do not go as planned

If the first treatment started too late, do not automatically push the second one to the end of September or October. Instead, quickly check colony strength, food stores and infestation level, then choose a safe course of action with help from an experienced person or the Bee Health Service.

If the food stores are still insufficient at the planned time for the second treatment, correct the situation without delaying the varroa control unnecessarily. A colony must not run out of food, but a treatment that is too late exposes the winter bees to excessive varroa pressure.

What to avoid

• Starting the second treatment only at the end of September or in October.
• Thinking that the first summer treatment is always enough.
• Forgetting the feeding between the two treatments.
• Postponing the treatment because the stores were not topped up in time.
• Stacking two treatments without respecting a sufficient interval.
• Treating without considering temperature and weather.
• Using an unauthorised product or deviating from the official instructions.

Key point

The second summer treatment is prepared from the end of the first one: feed in between, do not let the colony run out of food, then treat early enough, ideally at the beginning of September and at the latest around mid-September. The aim remains protecting the winter bees.

See also

• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept
• Practical Guide: 1.2 Overview of summer treatment methods
• Practical Guide: 4.2 Feeding
• Veterinary medicines / preparations authorised in Switzerland

What to do

• Plan the winter treatment after the first lasting cold spells, when laying has stopped or nearly so.
• If necessary, check that the colony no longer contains capped brood.
• Choose an oxalic acid treatment authorised in Switzerland.
• Read and strictly follow the official instructions of the product used: dosage, application method, temperature, safety and conditions of use.
• Wear appropriate protection: acid-resistant gloves, goggles and long-sleeved clothing.
• Place a mesh-protected varroa floor to monitor the mite drop after the treatment.
• Record the date of treatment on the hive card.

If things do not go as planned

If you still find capped brood at the planned time, do not treat as if the colony were brood-free. The safest course is to postpone the treatment to a period free of capped brood, or to seek advice before intervening. Treating too early greatly reduces the effectiveness of the treatment.

If the mite drop remains very high after the winter treatment, the situation must be reassessed. Do not simply repeat a trickling treatment: this method must not be repeated on the same colony. In case of doubt, seek advice from the Bee Health Service or an experienced person.

What to avoid

• Treating too early, when capped brood is still present.
• Relying solely on the calendar without considering the weather and the brood.
• Carrying out a treatment "to be on the safe side" without following the official instructions.
• Repeating a trickling treatment on the same colony.
• Neglecting personal protection when using oxalic acid.
• Believing that the winter treatment compensates for a poor summer treatment: the winter bees must already have been protected in summer.

Key point

The winter treatment is carried out in the absence of capped brood, generally in late November or December. It serves to start the new season with as low a varroa pressure as possible, but it does not replace the summer treatments.

See also

• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept
• Practical Guide: 1.3.2 Trickling treatment
• Practical Guide: 1.3.3 Oxalic acid vaporisation
• Winter treatment against varroa: what to do if colonies are still raising brood?

What to do

• Check that the count is reliable: clean varroa floor, short measurement, no ants carrying mites away.
• Compare the natural mite drop with the seasonal markers.
• Act quickly if critical thresholds are clearly exceeded, for example more than 3 mites per day in late May, more than 10 mites per day in late June / early July, or more than 5 mites per day in October.
• Remove supers intended for harvest before any medicinal treatment.
• Assess whether the colony is still strong enough to be saved: colony size, brood state, food stores, damaged bees or bees with deformed wings.
• Choose only an authorised method suited to the season, hive type and brood condition.
• In case of doubt, seek advice from the Bee Health Service or an experienced person before performing an emergency measure.
• Record the decision and the treatment on the hive card.

If things do not go as planned

In spring or early summer, the real emergency measure may consist of a rapid sanitation of the colony. In the Practical Guides of the Bee Health Service, this measure is based on relocating the colony onto new frames and applying oxalic acid. This is not a normal summer treatment: it is an exceptional intervention for a colony that is too heavily infested.

In late autumn, the situation is different: it is generally no longer possible to move the colony onto new frames. If the critical threshold is exceeded, the Bee Health Service then recommends an immediate complementary oxalic acid treatment, even if some brood is still present. This treatment aims only at breaking the infestation peak; the actual winter treatment must still be performed afterwards in the absence of capped brood.

If the colony is already very weak, very heavily infested or strongly affected by viruses, a late treatment will not always save it. In that case, advice should be sought quickly, because the question is no longer only the choice of product but also the colony's real ability to make it through winter.

What to avoid

• Confusing emergency treatment with the normal summer treatment.
• Waiting for the next scheduled treatment when a critical threshold is clearly exceeded.
• Treating without having removed the supers intended for harvest.
• Improvising a method or using an unauthorised product.
• Applying the same solution in June, October and winter without considering the season.
• Thinking that a late treatment will repair damage already suffered by the winter bees.
• Stacking treatments without a diagnosis or a clear strategy.

Key point

An emergency treatment is decided when the varroa pressure is too high to wait for the normal calendar. The right reflex is: measure, compare with the seasonal threshold, remove the supers if necessary, seek advice, then apply an authorised method. In late autumn, an immediate application of oxalic acid may be necessary even if some brood is still present, but it does not replace the winter treatment in the absence of capped brood.

See also

• Practical Guide: 1.7.2 Emergency varroa treatment (Swiss hives)
• Practical Guide: 1.7.1 Emergency treatment – stack hives
• Practical Guide: 1.5.1 Measuring the natural mite drop
• Winter treatment against varroa: what to do if colonies are still raising brood?

What to do

• Close the hive as soon as a suspect sign is observed.
• Reduce or close the entrance if there is a risk of robbing.
• Limit handling: do not shake frames, do not scrape, do not move brood.
• Observe the brood without trying to make a definitive diagnosis yourself.
• Healthy brood is generally compact, regular and without any suspect smell.
• Brood that should raise concern often appears patchy, with sunken or perforated cappings, sunken, yellowish, brownish or decomposed larvae, sometimes with an unusual smell.
• These signs do not in themselves prove foulbrood, but they are enough to stop the inspection, close the hive and seek the advice of the bee inspector.
• Note the colony concerned, the date, the signs observed and, if possible, take a few photos without further handling.
• Keep the equipment used separate until the situation is clarified.
• Once the inspector has decided, strictly follow the instructions received: sanitation, destruction, cleaning, disinfection or movement restrictions, depending on the case.

If things do not go as expected

Even if it is not certain that foulbrood is involved, caution is still required. Not every brood anomaly is foulbrood: chilled brood, heavy varroa pressure, a queen problem, chalkbrood or sacbrood can also disturb the appearance of the brood nest. At the apiary, however, the right reflex remains the same: in case of serious doubt, move nothing and seek the inspector's advice.

If the suspicion is confirmed, official instructions take precedence over any other practice. The instructions received must then be followed, even if they impose constraining measures. The aim is to prevent the spread to other colonies in the apiary and to neighbouring apiaries.

What to avoid

• Continuing the inspection as if nothing had happened.
• Moving suspect frames to another colony.
• Uniting a suspect colony with a healthy one.
• Letting bees clean out frames or supers.
• Scraping or shaking suspect brood in front of the apiary.
• Exchanging equipment between hives before clarification.
• Selling, giving away or moving colonies without competent advice.
• Attempting sanitation yourself before the inspector's visit.
• Downplaying abnormal brood in the belief that it will sort itself out.

Key takeaways

Suspect brood is not a situation to handle alone. The safe approach is simple: close up, move nothing, prevent robbing, contact the bee inspector and follow their instructions. This caution protects the colony concerned, the other colonies in the apiary and the neighbouring apiaries.

See also

• Practical Guide: 2 Diseases and pests
• Practical Guide: 2.1 American foulbrood
• Practical Guide: 2.2 European foulbrood
• Practical Guide: 4.1 Hygiene
• Recognising bee diseases

What to do

• First remove the supers intended for the harvest and store them out of reach of the bees.
• Quickly assess each colony: strength, remaining food stores, activity, need for varroa treatment, and ability to overwinter.
• Promptly give a first safety feed: about 2 to 3 litres of feeding syrup, especially if the nectar flow is over or uncertain.
• This first quantity helps strong colonies get through the period of the first varroa intervention, which can last one to two weeks depending on the method used.
• Feed cleanly, preferably in the evening, with a suitable feeder. Do not spill syrup and reduce the hive entrance if the risk of robbing is high.
• Plan feeding together with the varroa treatment. Depending on the method used, feeding may need to be interrupted or organised around the treatment. Always follow the package leaflet of the product used.
• If an oxalic acid intervention is planned, it must be carried out in a broodless period, with an authorised product and according to its official package leaflet. In that case, winter feeding can be organised accordingly.
• After the first treatment phase, top up the food stores slowly but regularly. Do not fill the brood box too quickly: a massive input can reduce the space available for laying and hinder the rearing of the winter bees.
• Adapt the amounts to the colony: a strong colony receives more than a small one, but a weak colony must first be assessed before being maintained artificially.
• As a practical benchmark: feed early enough, regularly, and complete the build-up of food stores at the latest around the second summer treatment phase, ideally before mid-September depending on the region, the weather, and the varroa management concept being followed.
• Top up the winter stores gradually. For a production colony, around 15 to 20 kg of accessible stores is generally the target, depending on the region, altitude, hive format, and length of winter.
• Throughout this period, the priority aim is not only to fill the hive but to allow the rearing of strong, well-fed winter bees with low parasite loads.
• Record the amounts given, the dates, the state of the food stores, and the treatments on the hive record card.

If things do not go as expected

If a colony refuses the syrup, first check its strength, the temperature, the feeder, the presence of food stores, and the general condition. A very weak or diseased colony does not recover simply with syrup.

If robbing appears, stop handling, close or cover any source of honey or syrup, reduce the hive entrance, and feed only in a very clean way, preferably in the evening.

If a colony is very light late in the season, act quickly while temperatures still allow the bees to take up syrup. Later, correction becomes more difficult.

If the brood nest fills up with feed too quickly, slow down the inputs. The aim is not only to build up food stores but also to keep space for rearing the winter bees.

If the colony is very weak, queenless, drone-laying, or suspect, do not feed it for weeks without a clear decision. A choice must be made: unite with a healthy colony, destroy cleanly if necessary, or seek advice.

If the amount of food stores is uncertain, compare the weight of the hives with one another, heft from the back, or use hive scales. A written estimate is better than a vague impression.

What to avoid

• Leaving the colonies without food after the harvest.
• Feeding with harvest supers still in place.
• Confusing the safety feed immediately after the harvest with the full winter feeding.
• Giving the entire winter ration too quickly just after the harvest, at the risk of blocking the brood nest.
• Forgetting that late summer serves to produce the winter bees: varroa, food stores, and space for laying must be considered together.
• Spilling syrup or leaving sugary material accessible to bees.
• Feeding in broad daylight during a dearth or a period of robbing.
• Giving large amounts without regard for the actual strength of the colony.
• Postponing feeding until cold autumn.
• Failing to coordinate feeding and varroa treatment.
• Feeding a very weak colony for a long time without understanding why it is weak.
• Feeding with honey instead of a suitable feeding syrup.
• Not recording the amounts given.

Key points

After the last harvest, first give a small safety feed, then coordinate varroa treatment and winter feeding. The practical rule is simple: 2 to 3 litres of syrup after the supers are removed, then slow but regular feeding until food stores are sufficient, without blocking the brood nest and without compromising the rearing of the winter bees.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.2 Feeding
• Which syrup to choose for winter feeding
• August at the apiary
• Practical Guide: 4.3 Overwintering
• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept

What to do

• Start feeding as soon as the supers are removed after the last harvest. Give 2 to 3 kg of syrup quickly before the first treatment, to avoid any period of food shortage.
• Finish the main feeding at the latest at the start of the second summer treatment, so that stores are built up in time.
• Check the stores after the harvest and the autumn feeding, ideally before the end of September.
• Lift the back of the hive gently or use a scale to spot colonies that are noticeably lighter than the others.
• On a final inspection in mild weather, check that the colony has about 4 to 5 well-filled food frames (15 to 20 kg) in addition to the food wreaths close to the brood nest.
• At altitude, in cold regions or when winter lasts a long time, aim for the upper end of the range.
• Record the syrup amounts and the estimated stores on the hive card.

If things do not go as planned

If the final check, towards the end of September, shows that the colony does not have enough stores, the situation must be corrected quickly. As long as temperatures allow, you can top up with feeding syrup or add a well-filled, healthy food frame from your own apiary, placed in contact with the cluster or the area occupied by the bees. In winter or late winter, cold syrup should generally no longer be given in a feeder far from the cluster: the safest solution is then emergency feeding with fondant, placed directly above the frames, as close as possible to the winter cluster. A colony should never run out of food: a shortage causes stress, weakens the winter cluster and can trigger a downward spiral.

What to avoid

• Relying solely on activity at the hive entrance: a colony can fly and still lack food.
• Waiting until December or January to discover that the stores are insufficient.
• Opening the hive for a long time in cold weather to "check".
• Giving cold syrup in winter, far from the cluster.
• Leaving a colony "a bit short" while assuming it will probably hold out until spring.

Key point

The simple marker is this: an overwintering colony must be heavy and have around 4 to 5 well-filled food frames, that is roughly 15 to 20 kg of stores depending on hive format, region and length of winter.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.3 Overwintering
• Practical Guide: 4.2 Feeding
• Which syrup to choose for winter feeding
• Shaping your own fondant
• Late winter feeding: what to think of it?

What to do

• Observe without opening: strong agitation in front of a hive, traffic much heavier than at the other colonies, bees arriving from above or below the entrance, fighting with the guard bees, nervous bees inside the hive.
• Check the entrance and the alighting board: sticky areas, wax debris, torn cappings, legs, wings or antennae on the varroa floor insert may indicate robbing.
• Look for the likely cause: a colony that is too weak, an entrance that is too wide, a leaking feeder, spilt syrup, accessible honey or food frames, supers or cappings left in the open, a hive opened too long during a period without nectar flow.
• As a preventive measure, match the entrance to the colony's strength. A small colony must be able to defend its entrance.
• Keep only viable colonies, with a queen and sufficient population. Small and young colonies are more vulnerable; where possible, place them at a separate site or give them additional protection.
• During the harvest, preferably use a bee escape and keep the supers that have been removed well closed.
• Never leave frames, supers, cappings or extraction equipment accessible to bees.
• During a dearth, open hives only when necessary and as briefly as possible.
• For feeding, work cleanly: feed in the evening after bee flight, avoid spills, immediately wash up any spilt syrup, use well-sealed feeders and feed the colonies in a coordinated manner.
• If robbing starts, immediately reduce the entrance to a very narrow opening, about two bees wide, and stop syrup distribution if possible.
• Fit a robbing guard in front of the entrance if the agitation continues. The idea is to let the colony's bees enter and leave along a path they know, while disorienting the robber bees.

If things do not go as expected

If robbing is already intense, do not carry out a long inspection. Close up immediately, reduce the entrance, cover any sugary material and limit honey or syrup odours.

If the robbing is fuelled by spilt syrup, a leaking feeder or accessible frames, the source must be removed at once: wash, close, cover or take away whatever attracts the bees.

If the source is honey stored in the hive under attack, the source cannot simply be removed. These stores must be made inaccessible to the robber bees: very narrow entrance, robbing guard, halt to feeding and, if necessary, moving the hive.

If the colony is heavily attacked, moving it more than 3 km away may sometimes save it. At the former location, an empty hive with the entrance open can divert the robber bees until they realise there is nothing left to take.

If a colony is regularly robbed, its viability must be assessed. A very weak, queenless, sick colony, or one unable to defend its entrance, should not be kept going artificially without a clear decision. It can become a risk for the entire apiary.

If you suspect a brood disease or a robbed-out dead colony, do not move frames to other colonies. Robbing can spread pathogens and varroa mites; advice must be sought before reusing any equipment.

What to avoid

• Leaving frames, supers, cappings or sticky equipment accessible to bees.
• Letting bees clean out supers or frames in the open.
• Feeding in broad daylight during a dearth.
• Spilling syrup and not cleaning it up immediately.
• Leaving an entrance too wide on a weak colony.
• Keeping several hives open for a long time during a period without nectar flow.
• Believing that simply narrowing the entrance is always enough when robbing is already massive.
• Continuing to feed a colony under attack with a leaking or poorly closed feeder.
• Moving frames from a robbed-out, dead or suspect colony to a healthy one.
• Keeping at the apiary colonies that are too weak, queenless or suspect and that become permanent targets.

Key takeaways

Robbing is easier to prevent than to stop. The practical rule: sufficiently strong colonies, an entrance matched to the colony, no accessible food, clean feeding in the evening, supers and frames always well closed. If robbing starts, immediately reduce the entrance, secure any sweet odour and fit a robbing guard. If robbing is already massive, the hive under attack sometimes has to be moved.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.8.3 Robbing
• Practical Guide: 4.8.1 Entrance observation
• Practical Guide: 4.2 Feeding
• On the contagiousness of foulbrood

What to do

• First check that the hive is in good condition: watertight roof, properly fitted crown board, well-fitted elements, no unnecessary gaps.
• Protect the colonies from the prevailing winds and avoid direct draughts.
• Place the hives on a stable support, away from soil moisture.
• Prevent rainwater or melting snow from entering the hive.
• Maintain a suitable entrance: reduced enough to limit cold, mice and robbing, but not completely closed.
• If necessary, use simple, dry and stable insulation above the crown board, under the roof.
• Ensure that moisture can be evacuated: the hive must not become a closed and damp box.
• Adapt the protection to the context: altitude, wind exposure, hive type, colony strength and local climate.
• Do not insulate too early or too heavily with the aim of keeping the hive permanently warm.
• Before winter, contract or unite healthy but too weak colonies, rather than relying on heavy insulation to compensate for their weakness.
• Make sure food stores are sufficient, close and accessible to the winter cluster.
• In early spring, when the colony resumes brood rearing, upper protection or appropriate contraction can help during cold spells. The aim is not to stimulate the colony artificially, but to help a colony that is already developing to keep the brood warm.

If things do not go as expected

If condensation appears under the crown board or water drips onto the bees, the problem is not only the cold: it is above all an issue of moisture and thermal bridging. Better upper insulation can help, but the watertightness of the roof, possible draughts, the state of the floor and overall ventilation must also be checked.

If the colony is very small, insulation is not enough. A small cluster loses proportionally more heat than a large one. Before winter, it is better to unite or reinforce healthy but too weak colonies than to rely on late insulation.

A cold period around –10 °C does not automatically require special insulation if the colony is strong, healthy, well-fed, dry and sheltered from wind. The danger more often comes from moisture, draughts, lack of accessible stores or a colony that is too small than from the cold alone.

Very heavy insulation, especially if put in place early and combined with a mild autumn, may help to maintain brood for longer. Yet the winter varroa treatment is more reliable when the colony is free of capped brood, or nearly so. Insulating should therefore not aim at keeping the hive permanently warm.

If extra protection is desired in early spring, this should be done with restraint: dry upper insulation, volume matched to colony size and accessible food stores. It is not a solution to compensate for a weak, poorly fed or heavily varroa-infested colony.

What to avoid

• Wrapping the hive completely in an airtight material.
• Closing off all ventilation in the belief that this retains heat.
• Letting water condense and drip onto the cluster.
• Putting on outer protection that keeps moisture against the wood.
• Believing that heavy insulation compensates for a colony that is too weak.
• Believing that heavy insulation compensates for a lack of food stores.
• Believing that heavy insulation compensates for poorly controlled varroa infestation.
• Insulating heavily and early in autumn, then being surprised that the colony keeps late brood and that the winter treatment window is hard to find.
• Insulating heavily in spring in the belief that this stimulates a weak colony.
• Forgetting about mice, draughts, soil moisture and the stability of the support.
• Opening or moving frames unnecessarily in winter to check the insulation.
• Heating a hive artificially without a clear reason and without technical mastery.

Key takeaways

In winter, bees need less a very warm hive than a dry, rain-tight, wind-sheltered hive with no direct draughts. Reasonable insulation above the crown board is often useful. Excessive, poorly ventilated or damp insulation can become counterproductive, especially if it maintains late brood and complicates the winter varroa treatment. The best protection remains a strong, healthy, well-fed and little-disturbed colony.

See also

• Sense and nonsense of hive thermal insulation
• Hive insulation tested against the collective thermoregulation of bees
• Practical Guide: 4.3 Overwintering
• Winter varroa treatment: what to do if the colonies are still rearing brood?

What to do

• Close or reduce the entrance to prevent robbing by the other colonies.
• Open only under good conditions, ideally in mild and dry weather.
• Observe before dismantling: position of the dead bees, remaining stores, presence of brood, moisture, mould, mouse traces, mortality on the hive floor.
• Look for the likely cause: lack of food or food out of reach, colony too weak in autumn, varroa infestation too high, insufficient treatment, queen problem, dampness, disturbance, rodents or brood disease.
• In case of abnormal brood, suspect smell, sunken or perforated cappings, brownish or ropy larvae: close the hive and contact the bee inspector.
• Sort the frames with care: melt down old brood frames, discard mouldy, soiled or doubtful frames, and reuse food frames only if the cause of mortality is clear and there is no suspect health sign.
• Carefully clean the hive, the floor, the crown board, the division boards and the small equipment.
• Disinfect the reusable equipment before installing a new colony, especially if the cause of mortality is not entirely clear.
• Record the observations on the hive record card: colony strength in autumn, food stores, varroa treatments, last inspection, signs found in spring.

If things do not go as expected

If the cause is not clear, choose the cautious option: do not give the frames to another colony and do not immediately install a new colony in a hive that has not been cleaned or disinfected. Food frames from a dead colony may seem useful, but they are not worth the risk of passing on a health problem.

If the brood looks suspect, do not scrape, shake, transport or have the frames cleaned out. Close the hive, possibly take a few photos without further handling, and then seek the advice of the bee inspector.

If the loss reveals that other colonies in the apiary are very weak, do not try to fix the situation by uniting two weak colonies. Two weak colonies do not generally produce a strong colony. It is better to unite only healthy and viable colonies, or to start again with a new healthy colony on clean and disinfected equipment.

What to avoid

• Leaving the hive open so that the other bees "clean" the frames.
• Letting bees clean out the frames of a dead colony.
• Distributing frames from a dead colony without having identified the cause.
• Shaking out the dead bees in front of the apiary.
• Mixing doubtful frames with clean frames.
• Installing a new colony in a hive that has not been cleaned or disinfected.
• Keeping black, mouldy or soiled frames, or frames containing old brood.
• Uniting two weak colonies in the belief that this will automatically produce a strong colony.
• Concluding too quickly that the colony died from the cold alone.
• Forgetting that many winter losses are already set up in late summer: varroa, the quality of the winter bees, food stores and colony strength often act together.

Key takeaways

A colony that has died over winter is first and foremost a health situation to be secured. Doubtful frames should be melted down, the equipment must be cleaned and disinfected, and a new colony should be installed only in a clean hive. In case of doubt, the bee inspector is the right contact.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.3 Overwintering
• Practical Guide: 4.1 Hygiene
• Practical Guide 1.1: Varroa management concept
• Practical Guide: 4.4.1 Melting down frames
• Practical Guide: 4.4.2 Comb storage

What to do

• Close the removed frames immediately in a box, a comb cabinet or a bee-proof container.
• Do not leave frames outside to be cleaned out, even briefly. This attracts bees, encourages robbing and may spread diseases through the apiary.
• Identify the origin of the frames: healthy colony, weak colony, dead colony, suspect colony or unknown origin.
• Sort quickly: healthy food frames, usable empty frames, pollen frames, old or poorly built frames, doubtful frames or frames from problem colonies.
• Keep only clean, well-built, sufficiently filled frames from a healthy colony for which the next use is clear.
• Use healthy food frames quickly – for instance to top up food stores or to form a young colony – provided their origin is reliable.
• If food frames are not frozen, use them as quickly as possible during the beekeeping season, ideally within days or weeks. Avoid keeping them at room temperature for long periods.
• In autumn, surplus food frames from healthy colonies may be kept until the following spring if storage conditions are good. They should then be used promptly, withdrawn from the cycle and melted down.
• To extend storage life, keep food frames in the freezer. Freezing allows longer storage than simply keeping them at room temperature, provided the frames are healthy and well wrapped.
• Before any storage outside the freezer, provide where possible a pass of 48 hours at −18 °C. This destroys wax moth stages already present and sharply reduces the risk of damage.
• After freezing, store frames in a cool, dry place, protected from bees, wasps, mice, moisture and strong odours.
• Where possible, keep frames below 12 °C. At this temperature, wax moth normally does not cause damage.
• Monitor stored frames: wax moth frass, silk threads, galleries or clusters of cocoons are warning signs.
• Pollen frames require particular caution: they strongly attract wax moth. Keep them only if their origin is clear, their condition excellent and their use very close. When in doubt, melt them down.
• Frames from dead, sick, very weak (without clear cause) or suspect colonies must not be redistributed. Isolate them and seek advice in case of any health concern.

If things do not go as expected

If bees gather around the equipment, boxes or storage room, there is probably a smell of accessible food. Close everything immediately, cover the frames and remove any source of honey, syrup or feed.

If a frame comes from a dead, very weak, sick or suspect colony, or is of unknown origin, do not give it to another colony. The health risk is too high. When in doubt, it is safer to melt the frame down or seek advice.

If a frame contains little food, is poorly built, mouldy, very old, black or damaged, it is generally not worth "saving". It is safer to melt it down and, where colonies lack stores, to feed them properly with an appropriate syrup or fondant.

If signs of wax moth appear during storage, sort immediately. Frames that are only lightly affected can sometimes be frozen for 48 hours at −18 °C if the wax is still healthy. Frames with clusters of cocoons, numerous galleries or heavy degradation must be melted down.

If pollen frames have to be kept, restrict the storage period strictly and prefer the freezer. At room temperature they are particularly exposed to wax moth.

If robbing begins, do not try to have the frames cleaned out by the bees. Close all the equipment, reduce food odours and apply measures against robbing.

What to avoid

• Letting bees clean out food frames or brood frames in the open.
• Leaving frames in a corner of the apiary "so that the bees can clean them".
• Keeping frames "just in case" without clear origin or planned use.
• Storing food frames at room temperature for long periods.
• Keeping pollen frames without protection against wax moth.
• Redistributing frames from a dead, sick, suspect or unknown colony.
• Believing that freezing makes a frame from a suspect colony healthy: it helps against wax moth but does not solve a health problem.
• Using the bees as "cleaners" for doubtful equipment.
• Mixing food frames, brood frames and super frames without sorting or traceability.
• Trying to save doubtful frames when clean feeding would be safer.

Key takeaways

A surplus frame is not automatically a resource: it may also be a vector of robbing, wax moth, varroa mites or disease. Good practice is to sort quickly, close up properly, freeze for 48 hours at −18 °C if storage is intended, use healthy food frames quickly, and melt down doubtful frames. Without freezing, food frames should only be kept for a short time during the season. In the freezer, storage can be extended, but only if the frames are healthy, clearly identified and useful.

See also

• Practical Guide: 4.8.3 Robbing
• Practical Guide: 4.4.2 Comb storage
• Practical Guide: 4.4 Comb renewal
• On the contagiousness of foulbrood

What to do

• Renew as a priority the frames that have contained brood, especially if they are very dark.
• Plan a progressive renewal, for example about one third of the brood combs each season.
• Introduce new wax frames or foundation when the colony is strong enough to build.
• Move the old combs to the edge of the brood nest, then remove them once they no longer contain brood.
• Quickly remove deformed, broken, mouldy or hard-to-inspect frames.
• Record the age or year of the frames in the hive record card or with a simple marking.
• Manage super frames separately: keep them only if they are clean, dry, solid and have not contained brood.

If things do not go as planned

If the colony is weak or does not build, do not force the renewal: only remove frames that are truly unusable and wait for a more favourable moment. In case of abnormal brood, suspicious smell or doubt about the health status, do not move the frame to another colony and seek competent advice.

What to avoid

• Leaving black brood combs in place for years on the grounds that they are still solid.
• Replacing too many frames at once in a weak colony.
• Introducing foundation too early, too late or in bad weather, when the bees do not build.
• Placing frames that have already contained brood in the super.
• Moving a suspicious frame from one colony to another.
• Storing damp, dirty or wax-moth-infested frames.

Key point

Renew brood combs progressively, especially in spring and early summer: old, black or damaged frames must be removed as a priority.

See also

• Six scientifically sound reasons not to use old combs
• Practical Guide: 4.4 Comb renewal
• Practical Guide: 4.4.1 Melting down combs
• Practical Guide: 4.4.2 Comb storage

What to do

• Examine the brood: patchy drone brood, domed cappings in worker cells, absence of regular worker brood, multiple eggs per cell or eggs deposited on the cell walls.
• Check whether a queen is still present: an old queen or a poorly mated young queen may also lay only unfertilised eggs. In that case the term used is rather a drone-laying queen.
• Look for any remaining young worker brood. If there is none left, the colony can no longer rear a new queen properly.
• If doubt remains, seek the advice of an experienced person before acting.
• If the colony is small, disorganised and truly drone-laying, do not invest a valuable queen.
• If no suspect health sign is present, dissolving the colony may be the safest option.
• To dissolve the colony, remove the hive from its location, then brush or shake the bees off some distance from the apiary, for instance into the grass. A proportion of the foragers will manage to be accepted by other colonies.
• Do not return the empty hive to its former location, otherwise the bees may return to it.
• Keep only healthy equipment: old brood frames are to be melted down, doubtful or mouldy frames discarded, and food frames reused only if the colony is healthy and the cause is clear.
• Clean the equipment before reuse.

If things do not go as expected

If the colony has only just lost its queen and open brood is still present, the situation is different: it can still raise a queen or receive a new queen under better conditions. As soon as laying workers are established, however, queen introduction rarely succeeds.

If the drone-laying colony is still relatively strong, the temptation is to try to save it. This is rarely a good option for straightforward colony management. A correction method requires experience, good timing and often open brood from another colony. For a safe approach, it is better not to weaken a good colony in an attempt to repair a colony with no clear future.

Dissolution at a distance does not save the colony and does not perfectly sort out the laying workers. It mainly serves to end a colony without a future cleanly, while allowing some of the foragers to join other colonies. It must not be used in case of any health doubt.

In case of suspect brood, abnormal smell, unusual mortality or any doubt about a brood disease, do not shake the bees in front of the apiary and do not distribute the frames. The advice of the bee inspector or a competent person must be sought.

What to avoid

• Introducing a mated queen directly into a drone-laying colony.
• Introducing a queen cell into an already drone-laying colony.
• Uniting a drone-laying colony with a good colony without precautions.
• Uniting two weak colonies in the belief that this will produce a strong colony.
• Repeatedly giving brood from a good colony in an attempt to save a heavily degraded colony.
• Shaking a drone-laying colony in front of the other hives.
• Leaving the empty hive at its former location after dissolution.
• Using the distance dissolution method in case of any health doubt.
• Keeping frames containing old, patchy drone brood.
• Confusing a recently queenless colony with an established drone-laying colony.
• Waiting too long: the longer the situation lasts, the harder it becomes to correct.

Key takeaways

A drone-laying colony is a colony whose normal dynamic is broken. The right reflex is not to waste a queen or weaken a good colony for an uncertain attempt. If the colony is truly drone-laying, the safest solution is often to dissolve it cleanly and start again with a healthy colony on clean equipment.

See also

• The drone-laying colony
• Practical Guide: 4.7.4 Managing queenless colonies
• How to introduce queens?
• Practical Guide: 4.7.1 Uniting colonies
• Practical Guide: 4.4.1 Melting down frames