Month by month 12: December

This is a time of rest, and the key word is peace

Depending on the region, there may still be some fine days during which warmed bees will fly out. Then the long overwintering period begins. In the cluster, bees huddle around their queen. They take turns moving to the surface of the cluster, thereby sharing the energy expenditure.

Hive maintenance in winter

While in spring and summer colonies are very active and provide a harvest at the end of the season, winter is a time of rest, and the key word is peace. This does not mean leaving the beehive completely unattended; it should be checked from time to time: the roof, the walls, and so on. Above all, avoid noise and excessive movement so as not to disturb the bees. If a significant number of dead bees is observed, there is no need to panic—this is normal at this time of year. Natural mortality affects bees in winter, and around 3,000 deaths over three months can be expected. For hive hygiene, it is advisable, though not mandatory, to remove the carcasses using a hook.

Winter can also be used to complete the cleaning of your equipment, if this has not already been done; spare frames should be inspected, scraped, repaired, rewaxed … assemble and wax a few new frames that will be useful in the coming season and will spare you searching and rushing at the critical moment.

Take the time to arrange and clear your apiary sites (without using engines!). You may also consider planting aromatic or nectar-producing plants. While honey production requires extensive areas, for the hobbyist a small additional resource—able to establish itself initially and then develop on its own—may be of interest … thyme, rosemary, borage, sage … as culinary or herbal plants.

Overwintering

It is very important to preserve the bees’ tranquillity: when disturbed, they become agitated and consume more; the food stores must remain sufficient and last as long as possible, as the duration and severity of winter cannot be predicted. These reserves determine the condition of the colony and its vigour at the end-of-winter restart; excessive consumption during the unfavourable season would also contribute to intestinal overload at a time that is unsuitable for cleansing flights.

It is late and harmful to provide liquid feed in cold weather: such an operation would stimulate egg laying and brood rearing and would also waste reserves. Truly, only in cases of absolute necessity as an emergency measure could the provision of fondant (candy) still be considered: placed directly on the frames, under an inverted feeder; however, there remains the risk that it will not even be used (if it is too cold for the cluster). The prudent beekeeper has ensured adequate provisioning of the colonies at the very beginning of autumn.

Some precautions remain: for the hive as for a house or a human, most heat loss occurs through the top. Therefore, aim for maximum insulation: a straw cushion, polystyrene board, pieces of old blankets, corrugated cardboard, newspapers … can be placed under the roof. Take the opportunity to check watertightness, ensure stability, and weight the roof—it must not blow away!

Also check the entrance guard: it must withstand potential intruders. In winter, if there is snowfall, there is no risk for the beehive, as snow is permeable and allows air circulation. However, ice must not be allowed to form, as it is the opposite of snow and prevents bees from breathing. In snowy regions, the entrance can be protected with a roof tile or a board. The bees will then leave the hive only when they sense the warmth of the air and will not be misled by sunlight. If they land on snow, they will die.

Finally, ensure that maximum precautions are taken against moisture: bees are even more sensitive to it than to cold, against which they can better defend themselves (by feeding!). Egg laying often resumes as early as January, and from February onwards you will observe the forager resuming work: bringing back pollen (and water, which is less visible!). Along with honey, these are the basic elements for feeding larvae. If your region were to lack these—something that should be rare to our knowledge—there is a substitute: chickpea flour. It could then be offered, with a small amount of honey as an attractant, near the apiary (and sheltered!).